My RAD is dialed but my levers hit my top tube

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Hi Lee,

I bought Dialed ebook from your website and have now got my RAD to + 1mm (was +51mm) , My RAAD is at 57.5 degrees (was 62) and my SHO is +10mm
Had to purchase some new bars and use a different stem that I already had so pleased I got pretty much there – now need to go and ride some decent trails to see how it feels and get used to the difference (its quite a bit) but one thing now is that my Shifter or Dropper lever will now impact the top tube if the bars rotate in an off (they didn’t hit before) – is this something you come across often and any idea on protecting the top tube other that wrapping some suitable tape/rubber/foam ?

Much appreciated
Peter

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Riding the Specialized Turbo Vado 6.0

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Today The Wife and I rode 15-20 miles of bike paths and roads on Specialized Turbo Vado 6.0s.

Of note:

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Cyclocross Skills to Get the Edge

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Place: Valmont Bike Park
Day: Aug. 1 and 6
Time: 5 to 8 p.m.
Cost: $125

Sign up at EventBrite >>>

Find free time on the course where others struggle

Cyclocross season is coming. You’ve worked hard to get fit, but are your skills slowing you down?

‘Cross courses favor riders who can balance speed in long stretches, finesse through obstacles and carry speed out of turns – and they punish those who can’t. Learn with professional cycling coach Lee McCormack how to turn the ‘cross course into your new bestie.

In this 3-hour intensive course, you’ll learn bike handling skills that will put you ahead of the competition.

Cornering safer and faster

What if you could save .5-1 second in every CX course turn? In a typical cross’ race with 20 turns per lap and nine laps per race, you’re looking at dropping 1-3 minutes just with improved cornering alone. How many places is that worth?

Plus, you’ll be using less energy coming out of every turn so you can save that power for your last lap punch. And now that you’re corning faster and safer, let’s not forget how much time you save when you don’t crash. (Win-win!)

Working the terrain

See opportunities where others see obstacles. Learn how to spy the fastest lines, pump the terrain for increased speed and find flow on the course. Work the course instead of getting worked by it. It’s not only faster and requires less energy – it makes racing that much more fun.

These skills will help you carry more, easier speed all around the course. If we have time, we’ll also look at dismount/remounts and hops. 

Class will meet at Valmont Bike Park so you can dial in the terrain that you’ll race in local and national Pro CX events.

Bonus: All attendees get 10% off the Boulder Bicycle Works Speed Treatment — the drivetrain treatment that keeps your bike running smoothly despite gnarly conditions — which is key for CX racing!

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Two days on the Specialized Turbo Kenevo Expert

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I like bikes, and that includes ebikes. I’ve been trying to get a feel for how they differ from acoustic bikes — and how they differ from each other. The latest loaner is the Specialized Turbo Kenevo Expert
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Retracting your shoulders on the RipRow and bike

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Hey Lee,
seeing some good progress with the RipRow so far.
I’ve been struggling with my right shoulder after a crash (as well as the common rolling forward problem due to office work), my physio has given me exercises to adjust my positioning of the scapula and my shoulders in general better.

I showed him the RipRow and the lowrow exercise in particular. He likes the machine and suggests I always pull my scapula’s close to one another (which in turn brings my shoulders back), except when i reach the point of trying to push the bar away as far as possible, IOW he suggests at the end of the push away to also release the scapulas to extend the reach at the end of the spectrum, and when pulling back, start with the scapulas before bending the arms to pull.

What are your thoughts on shoulder/scapula positioning in the shredlift, lowrow and straightrow exercises or on the bike in general? Are there rules of thumb like “always try to keep shoulders back” ?

thanks!
Dieter

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Riding the Stumpjumper EVO 29 Pro Carbon

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Last week I rode the 2019 Specialized Stumpjumper EVO Pro Carbon 29 in Moab, UT.

Thoughts:

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Should I get a short-travel trail bike or a long-travel trail bike?

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Hi Lee

I don’t know if you answer these kinds of questions but I thought I’ll give it a try. Feel free to deny to answer ;-).

As mentioned above I’ll be getting a new bike and I actually ordered a 130mm trail bike. I’ve been a bit insecure lately if I did the right choice or if I should try to change my order to a 150mm bike which is a bit more towards Enduro (I rather have only 1 bike than 2).

I don’t want to be one of those quys who is overbiked, on the other hand I don’t want to risk damage of the bike because I’m doing stuff which the bike can’t take.

The skill level I’m hoping to achieve:

  • Good flow on trails with berms etc.
  • Being able to go down technical terrain with some “blocked” passages safely (I don’t want to go down fast)
  • Doing drops of maybe 1m
  • Jumps: clearing tables of maybe 2m safely. Not sure if I have the balls for attempting gaps.
  • Pump Track. With increasing skill, I’d love to include some jumps.

As most of my biking is without shuttles and more like tours rather than bike parks I opted for a nice, light high-end trail bike, but as said, I’m not sure if it would take the above mentioned loads.I’m about 74kg of weight. What does your experience say?

I’m looking at a Canyon Neuron (130mm rear/130mm front) and a Canyon Spectral (140/150mm).

Stefan

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Quick tips for an XC/Xterra racer

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Hi Lee! I’ve been poking around your website and it’s great. So much stuff! Also, listened to your interview on the Nourish Balance Thrive podcast (super!) and my coach Lesley Paterson suggested I reach out to you.

Here’s my deal…
I just bought a new bike. It’s awesome. I know I’m going to love it. When I figure out how to handle it. I’ve been riding a full-suspension bike forever (with very small wheels). What I lack in skill and technique I make up for with determination and squish. My new race bike (for xc and xterra) is a 29inch hardtail. It feels like a big change. I do ride cross and have some experience with a more rigid bike…but I feel really out of my element all of a sudden.

My back end pops up, jams me in the rear, chatters my teeth and I simply feel my riding is cringe-worthy.

I want to learn how to handle this thing with finesse and speed. I’ve got GOALS.

I am wondering if you might have a couple simple tips I can take with me when I hit the trails next..or point me in the right direction with your videos, products, online coaching etc. I’d be very grateful.

Thanks Lee!

-Remy

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Check out the MTB Strong workout program

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STARTING WITH THE WORST, here are some approaches to off-bike training.

4. Doing none of it. Just ride yer bike Bro.

3. Doing it haphazardly. When I was young, every day was a max day. Rest days? Only for the weak!

2. Following a program designed by an expert and delivered online.

1. Working live in person with a qualified doctor/trainer a la Revo Physiotherapy and Sports Performance in Boulder CO. This is the best! And I’ve been fortunate to receive this therapy. But it isn’t accessible for everyone.

For many riders, your best value is following a program designed by an expert in riding and training. Dee Tidwell at Enduro MTB Training is such an expert, and he’s launched a new program.

I promote Dee here because A) he’s a good fellow, B) he’s helped me and C) he can likely help you.

Check out the MTB Strong training program >>>

8 things I love about my Specialized AWOL

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I’ve been riding this bike for 16 months, and I’ve grown to love it. Let me count the ways …

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The morning after my first RipRow workout: my hamstrings!

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The morning after.. my hamstrings are tight and I walk funny. Usually when I do a bend over stretch i can put my palms on the floor, today I barely make it to the floor.

Should I have stretched more or less or differently? Ironically, regarding the one stretch I do most regularly (bending over) I just found an article saying it’s bad.

thoughts?

Dieter

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Is the new geometry worth a bike upgrade?

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Dear Lee

I have a Stumpjumper FSR Comp 29er from 2014. I really like this bike BUT I know the the newer bikes of the same type changed quite a bit in terms of the geometry. They have shorter chainstays and a slacker head angle for example. What are your thoughts about this? I don’t have a lot of money to spend for a new bike but I’m asking myself whether I would improve my riding with a longer and slacker geometry.

Hopefully you can help me quickly with some insights.

Thanks a lot and kind regards,

Reto

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