All the sweet bikes and parts. Mmm … parts.

Should I get a short-travel trail bike or a long-travel trail bike?

Hi Lee

I don’t know if you answer these kinds of questions but I thought I’ll give it a try. Feel free to deny to answer ;-).

As mentioned above I’ll be getting a new bike and I actually ordered a 130mm trail bike. I’ve been a bit insecure lately if I did the right choice or if I should try to change my order to a 150mm bike which is a bit more towards Enduro (I rather have only 1 bike than 2).

I don’t want to be one of those quys who is overbiked, on the other hand I don’t want to risk damage of the bike because I’m doing stuff which the bike can’t take.

The skill level I’m hoping to achieve:

  • Good flow on trails with berms etc.
  • Being able to go down technical terrain with some “blocked” passages safely (I don’t want to go down fast)
  • Doing drops of maybe 1m
  • Jumps: clearing tables of maybe 2m safely. Not sure if I have the balls for attempting gaps.
  • Pump Track. With increasing skill, I’d love to include some jumps.

As most of my biking is without shuttles and more like tours rather than bike parks I opted for a nice, light high-end trail bike, but as said, I’m not sure if it would take the above mentioned loads.I’m about 74kg of weight. What does your experience say?

I’m looking at a Canyon Neuron (130mm rear/130mm front) and a Canyon Spectral (140/150mm).

Stefan

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8 things I love about my Specialized AWOL

I’ve been riding this bike for 16 months, and I’ve grown to love it. Let me count the ways …

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Is the new geometry worth a bike upgrade?


Dear Lee

I have a Stumpjumper FSR Comp 29er from 2014. I really like this bike BUT I know the the newer bikes of the same type changed quite a bit in terms of the geometry. They have shorter chainstays and a slacker head angle for example. What are your thoughts about this? I don’t have a lot of money to spend for a new bike but I’m asking myself whether I would improve my riding with a longer and slacker geometry.

Hopefully you can help me quickly with some insights.

Thanks a lot and kind regards,

Reto

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Quick and easy way to find your ideal MTB handlebar width

This article is adapted from the book Dialed and ran on Pinkbike.

I hope you find it helpful.

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Dialing in your bike setup step 1: Make it RAD

 

 

This article is adapted from the book Dialed and ran on Pinkbike. It lays out the most important aspect of mountain bike fit and setup.
I hope you find it helpful!

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Question about RAD bike-setup number

Lee,

I wanted to discuss your RAD number idea a little more.  I read your article on Pinkbike and used the suggested ratio to calculate my RAD number and then went out to the shop and checked all my bikes.  It was interesting.  My BMX and 4X/dirt jump bike both were spot on the number.  My medium Yeti SB66 with 50 mm stem was 20mm longer and my Specialized Epic WC was 70 mm longer.  I found this interesting as did not set up any of these bike with RAD.  I got to thinking and have an additional question.  Both the BMX and dirt jumper you ride standing up all the time.  However with the Yeti and Epic I spend and increasing amount of time sitting and pedaling.  I put a long seatpost in the dirt jumper and got my saddle position set and that made the reach to the bars feel way to close for seated riding.  Your thoughts?  As a side note one thing that I have noticed in the past on my bikes is that I tend to tuck the front wheel in corners as apposed to a front wheel slide.  Could this be due to to much weight on the front wheel?  Also with regards to “new” bikes out there I would typically be a size M, but with longer reach numbers maybe I need to look at size S as you suggest.

In any case, thanks for you input as always.  You have been great to both Susan and myself in the past.  I have also gotten the pump track built in the back yard, so if you ever make it up to Spokane you have a place to stay and rip some laps. 

Greg S

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Questions after reading Dialed

Hi Lee,

First of all, thank you for all your work on the blog – it really is a standout in the bike-internet-knowledge base. As well as Dialed e-book that I bought today.

After reading it, I have some questions. Perhaps you will find time to answer them?

1. How can I access the rider-and-bike calculator (I always get a “This page requires a membership to view” notification when I login with my e-mail: wooyek@gmail.com)?
2. “RAD, RAAD, Reach and Stack Table” – are these actual frame dimensions (“official” reach/stack used by manufacturers) or do they include cockpit dimensions?
3. If handlebar rotation should not be used to dial-in the RAD, what method should be used first, give the stem spacers are not enough?
4. What is your method to measure RAAD?
5. How would you describe rider’s “average proportions”? Do you know the average inseam-to-height ratio?
Thank you in advance, best regards!

Michal

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RipRow for endurance and vs. a rowing machine?

Hi,

I am seriously considering purchasing a RipRow. I can’t purchase both a rowing machine (which was original plan) AND the RipRow. So I thought you may be able to help with some info about me as a rider.

I am 61, female, started mountain biking about 4 years ago. My confidence waxes and wanes depending on how much i get to ride. I live in Iowa. From now until March or April our trails are under snow and ice. 

I have a Cycleops trainer, and i admit it’s not easy to do all my training sitting on a bike. I practice yoga regularly. I was considering the rowing machine because i want a good all over body workout and endurance training as well.

I have been intrigued by the RipRow since you introduced it. I would love to increase my skills so i can ride more, ride well, ride fast, learn to corner, navigate drops, boulders, jump etc.

Can the RipRow provide me with an aerobic workout as well as strength building? everything a rowing machine can do?

thoughts to help me decide? I have hardwood floors..will i need a mat or something to limit the rocking of the RipRow?

thanks for any insight.

Mary A.

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Review: my first four rides on the Trust Message fork

The internet has been exploding with news of the Trust Message linkage fork. I’ve been riding one! Here is a quick review.

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Dialed bike setup and front/rear weight distribution

Lee,

We at Trail Werks Cyclery are trying to use your Dialed theories to fit body/bike but I have some questions that I’m sure you’ve thought about.

Front/rear wheel attack position weight distribution – auto racing wants 50/50. What’s the theory on two-wheeled sports where body weight has such a huge impact? Is it 60/40 on flat ground? How does your RAAD affect that, if at all? We want to be able to set up suspension along with rider position. Does the front/rear weight balance shift with RAAD from xc race to dh? How? Is one more important than the other?

I hope this doesn’t drive you nuts. I’m hoping you tell me they are just two different things.

Thanks again. You’ve made me very busy thinking, talking to customers and measuring shit… Nice work.

Michael K

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Should I be on a medium or small bike?

Hi Lee

I just signed up for your RideLogic bike setup service. I’m 5’8″ and am a little stunned at the difference in dimensions that it recommends vs my current bike.

I have one of those long low 27.5 Whyte bikes, and I ride a medium with a 450 mm reach (The RAD on that bike is WAY longer than what RideLogic recommends, but it actually feels really good).

I was shocked when your article said I should be on a 410 mm reach bike. I am looking at 29ers (never owned one before), and I rode a Guerilla Gravity Smash medium which was at 460 mm reach and I hated it.

After looking at RideLogic, I should have demoed the small instead. Most of the bike websites out there say I should be a medium and the average reach on those is 425 mm which still have longer RAD numbers. Do I really need a small??

It looks like RideLogic doesn’t discriminate on someones proportions (arm length, inseam etc). Do those factor in or is it pretty standard that someone who is 5’8″ will fit into a certain RAD?

Matt M.

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