All the sweet bikes and parts. Mmm … parts.
I spent much of last season on a Lenz Sport Behemoth, and I’m here to tell you about it.
This article begins with some background and context. For the bottom line, scroll to the bottom, which seems like a fine place for a bottom line.
Thanks for the RideLogic bike setup consultation. Two rides in with the new bar and I’m definitely adjusting, but it’s a way different feel than it used to be. Really liking it, and a lot of moves feel easier (as long as my legs are up for it). I’ve obviously taken a deep dive here, so why not dive all the way.
My next thing I’m looking at is crank length. You talk about switching from 30 to 28 teeth for a switch from 175 to 165. I’m considering going to 155. I currently have a 32 tooth and 170, I believe. How many teeth would I need for a 155mm crank?
I was wondering if you’re willing to give your opinion on this. If not, no worries.
I may need to get my rear shock rebuilt. Since it is an old model, the rebuild kit isn’t available from Fox.
Fox pointed me to Risse Racing.
Do you have any opinions about Risse racing? Or any experience with them?
I’ve seen mixed reports on the web about them, so I’m wondering how much effort I should put into finding another option.
I’m enjoying the book Dialed: the secret math of a perfect mountain bike setup and really appreciate the MTB specific and rider-centric approach to bike fitting. I was wondering if you can guide me toward how to accurately measure my RAAD? There’s plenty of info in the book on how it should be set, but I’m not clear on the best way to measure it. Any recommended tool? Protractor devices and angle finders are generally not very long and would likely lack precision if trying to measure from the center point of the bottom bracket.
My RAD is prefect, surprisingly, with a fully stock bike (Large 2021 Epic EVO), so I’m afraid to tinker with the wrong adjustments and just end up messing up my RAD by trying to dial in my RAAD. Any tips on accurate measuring would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks in advance!
I am a new member of the Lee Likes Bikes MTB School but have followed you for a while and read your book probably close to 8-9 years ago. Still have it and review it from time to time.
I am 55, and have been riding for most of my adult life (MTB/Rd/Tri).
I have been wanting to buy a new mountain bike for years, but at 58 inches tall and 95 lbs, I have been challenged and frustrated.
The last bike I purchased, which is my current one, was in 2010 or 2011; a Pivot mach 4 in XS ( yes 26″). I purchased it sight unseen. At the time I felt it was too big, ( compared to my hard tail Mojo – which I LOVED).
In the last 5 years or so, I have attempted to test ride different rigs. Out of the handful I have tried (availability being the primary issue), none feel like they fit. Has the industry forgotten about shorter statured riders, or is there something out there?
I keep looking online at various manufacturer’ sites, but what looks like a possibility on paper, may not always the case.
Would I be able to find a resource on your site that would lead me the right direction?
Not really sure how to start. I appreciate your time,
Barry Nobles is a badass.
In this video he compares start/sprint speed between his ultra-stiff carbon race shoes and softer skate-style shoes. He prefers the look and comfort of the skate shoes but doesn’t want to give up speed.
My name is Gavin, I emailed you with some questions about mountain biking a few years ago and I have another question for you now. I have been much more serious about mountain biking the past few years, and I bought myself a 2016 cannondale habit just after I emailed you last. I have been looking at maybe buying a dirt jumper for a while now but half a year ago I moved to Washington, Connecticut. The area I am in has 3 bmx tracks within an hour so I am trying to figure out if I should get a dirt jump bike or a bmx bike. Having a dirt jumper where I live would be fun because I live on a boarding school campus, but with the bmx tracks near me and the lower price of a bmx bike, I am quite torn. I would really appreciate it if you could help me out with this.
The information in these books (Dialed and F6) is great. I do have one question. I am planning on upgrading from a 2008 Med S-works Epic to a 2021 Epic Pro. The geometry has changed drastically especially with the release of the 2021 bike. Based on your charts in the Dialed In book, you recommend a reach of 410mm for my height (5’ 8”). Based on the radically different geometry this puts me on a small frame. As you are very familiar with Specialized can you give me any insight into going longer with the new geo on the med frame (possibly shorter stem depending on SHO) vs. holding back and riding a small frame? I live in the SE USA and the most technical riding is done during my Xterra races at Oak Mountain (way less technical than out west).
Hope this email finds you well my friend. You might remember our convo, but I’m writing you b/c I’ve been experiencing terrible hand and wrist pain on my rides and wondering if you could provide some help as the discomfort is so bad, it’s really bumming me out.
Some background info (again):
- I’m 173 cm tall / 215 lbs
- All my riding is New England roots and rocks
- Riding a medium Ibis Ripley V4
- Handlebars – One up – cut down to 760mm
- Stem – been constantly going back and forth between 40 & 50mm. I know you said 30 is better (and I know it improves my RAD) – but I found the 30 made my steering just too twitchy
- Grips – I played with ESI, all the Ergons and currency running the PNW Loams
We already chatted stem size, and I still can’t find the answer, but what I do notice is that my wrists are never straight when I grip. My hands are always bent inwards and not parallel with bar.
Maybe I need to try SQlab?
Any advice would be helpful and thanks again in advance.