All the sweet bikes and parts. Mmm … parts.
I bought Dialed ebook from your website and have now got my RAD to + 1mm (was +51mm) , My RAAD is at 57.5 degrees (was 62) and my SHO is +10mm
Had to purchase some new bars and use a different stem that I already had so pleased I got pretty much there – now need to go and ride some decent trails to see how it feels and get used to the difference (its quite a bit) but one thing now is that my Shifter or Dropper lever will now impact the top tube if the bars rotate in an off (they didn’t hit before) – is this something you come across often and any idea on protecting the top tube other that wrapping some suitable tape/rubber/foam ?
Today The Wife and I rode 15-20 miles of bike paths and roads on Specialized Turbo Vado 6.0s.
I like bikes, and that includes ebikes. I’ve been trying to get a feel for how they differ from acoustic bikes — and how they differ from each other. The latest loaner is the Specialized Turbo Kenevo Expert
Last week I rode the 2019 Specialized Stumpjumper EVO Pro Carbon 29 in Moab, UT.
I don’t know if you answer these kinds of questions but I thought I’ll give it a try. Feel free to deny to answer ;-).
As mentioned above I’ll be getting a new bike and I actually ordered a 130mm trail bike. I’ve been a bit insecure lately if I did the right choice or if I should try to change my order to a 150mm bike which is a bit more towards Enduro (I rather have only 1 bike than 2).
I don’t want to be one of those quys who is overbiked, on the other hand I don’t want to risk damage of the bike because I’m doing stuff which the bike can’t take.
The skill level I’m hoping to achieve:
- Good flow on trails with berms etc.
- Being able to go down technical terrain with some “blocked” passages safely (I don’t want to go down fast)
- Doing drops of maybe 1m
- Jumps: clearing tables of maybe 2m safely. Not sure if I have the balls for attempting gaps.
- Pump Track. With increasing skill, I’d love to include some jumps.
As most of my biking is without shuttles and more like tours rather than bike parks I opted for a nice, light high-end trail bike, but as said, I’m not sure if it would take the above mentioned loads.I’m about 74kg of weight. What does your experience say?
I’m looking at a Canyon Neuron (130mm rear/130mm front) and a Canyon Spectral (140/150mm).
I’ve been riding this bike for 16 months, and I’ve grown to love it. Let me count the ways …
I have a Stumpjumper FSR Comp 29er from 2014. I really like this bike BUT I know the the newer bikes of the same type changed quite a bit in terms of the geometry. They have shorter chainstays and a slacker head angle for example. What are your thoughts about this? I don’t have a lot of money to spend for a new bike but I’m asking myself whether I would improve my riding with a longer and slacker geometry.
Hopefully you can help me quickly with some insights.
Thanks a lot and kind regards,
I wanted to discuss your RAD number idea a little more. I read your article on Pinkbike and used the suggested ratio to calculate my RAD number and then went out to the shop and checked all my bikes. It was interesting. My BMX and 4X/dirt jump bike both were spot on the number. My medium Yeti SB66 with 50 mm stem was 20mm longer and my Specialized Epic WC was 70 mm longer. I found this interesting as did not set up any of these bike with RAD. I got to thinking and have an additional question. Both the BMX and dirt jumper you ride standing up all the time. However with the Yeti and Epic I spend and increasing amount of time sitting and pedaling. I put a long seatpost in the dirt jumper and got my saddle position set and that made the reach to the bars feel way to close for seated riding. Your thoughts? As a side note one thing that I have noticed in the past on my bikes is that I tend to tuck the front wheel in corners as apposed to a front wheel slide. Could this be due to to much weight on the front wheel? Also with regards to “new” bikes out there I would typically be a size M, but with longer reach numbers maybe I need to look at size S as you suggest.
In any case, thanks for you input as always. You have been great to both Susan and myself in the past. I have also gotten the pump track built in the back yard, so if you ever make it up to Spokane you have a place to stay and rip some laps.
First of all, thank you for all your work on the blog – it really is a standout in the bike-internet-knowledge base. As well as Dialed e-book that I bought today.
After reading it, I have some questions. Perhaps you will find time to answer them?
1. How can I access the rider-and-bike calculator (I always get a “This page requires a membership to view” notification when I login with my e-mail: firstname.lastname@example.org)?
2. “RAD, RAAD, Reach and Stack Table” – are these actual frame dimensions (“official” reach/stack used by manufacturers) or do they include cockpit dimensions?
3. If handlebar rotation should not be used to dial-in the RAD, what method should be used first, give the stem spacers are not enough?
4. What is your method to measure RAAD?
5. How would you describe rider’s “average proportions”? Do you know the average inseam-to-height ratio?
Thank you in advance, best regards!