Feels slow, but maybe it’s not slow
All the sweet bikes and parts. Mmm … parts.
Do you prefer the Maxxis Minion DHF over the Specialized Butcher when it comes to dry, roots, pine needles? This is for 29×2.6 on the new Specialized Levo Expert 2019 model that just came out. (I remember you had a 2012 Expert Stumpjumper just like mine.)
I want to keep the weight of the new LEVO low and the Butcher weight is about 200 grams per tire lighter than the Minion. I like the Maxxis High Rollers better than the Specialized tires I tried. Is Maxxis worth the the weight from Butcher to Minion?
Today some real experts helped me dial in my suspension, and my bike feels massively better.
Dialed helps you select and set up your mountain bike to fit your body and riding style.
• Ride your best.
• Save money by buying smart.
• Reduce injuries.
• Maximize fun.
Dialed was created by world renowned mountain bike instructor Lee McCormack of Lee Likes Bikes. Lee has written 10 books on mountain biking and taught thousands of riders of all levels and styles.
Dialed includes special access to the RideLogic online bike setup calculator, LLBMTB riding school and more.
Dialed is available as an ebook and as a print book.
Why do you ride?
That’s a powerful and seldom asked question. To lose weight, to prove something, to be with friends, to have fun?
Fun is one of the better answers. Let’s dig into that.
Hi Lee and thanks for all the great info online.
Last year I got some instruction at Whistler and my instructor kept on stressing elbows out – “chicken wings.”
Then I bought the book Mastering Mountain Bike Skills 3rd Edition and learned that elbows out used to be taught but is actually wrong, hold elbows behind grips.
This week I’m riding sweep for my son’s DH camp and the instructors stress elbows out. I even spoke to one great, extremely experienced instructor after and he doubled down on elbows out.
Can you clarify the thinking behind in and out and why you changed? I haven’t been this confused since girls in high school.
Not only will it have the XTR sweetness and Shimano bulletproofness, it’s also a very thorough approach to dialing in your bike for your riding style:
• Wide variety of 1x and 2x gearing options
• Refined shifters and derailleurs
• Dropper seatpost remote
• More powerful brakes in XC and enduro styles
• Pedals with greater shoe contact and support
• And more
In my opinion, the other drivetrain company is a marketing company. They innovate, and they reach the market early and, in my experience, quality isn’t on point. I’m talking about brakes that don’t work consistently, a dropper that never worked once, and top-level drivetrain parts that need immediate warranty. If you don’t know the difference, you can be happy. If you know the difference, and you pay serious money, this is not OK.
Shimano is an engineering company. They might not be first to market, but they take their work seriously, and when they launch a product it’s dialed. How many times have I warranted a Shimano part over the past 25+ years? Zero.
Whenever I get a bike with the other components, the first thing I change is the brakes (depending on my mood, I’ll run XT, XTR, Saint or Zee; those levers are like a pacifier — they make me feel safe). I ride the other drivetrain until it wears out or breaks or just plain annoys me, then I upgrade — generally to workhorse XT but occasionally and gloriously to XTR.
Once my bike is wearing Shimano, I stop worrying about braking and shifting, and I focus on riding. As someone who relies on his bikes to make a living, I can’t over stress how nice it is to KNOW my stuff is going to function. Oh yeah, and meanwhile the SPD pedals just plain work. And work and work. I’ve been riding the same pedals for more than a decade. Shoot, I have some 636s from when I was racing downhill. Scratched but functional. Just like me!
Shimano fishing reels are the same way. I still have the ultralight spinning reel I received for Christmas when I was 10 years old. That’s 38 years of abuse, including some crazy saltwater adventures. Tuna … dorado … yellowtail … that little reel kicks ass.
I have received generous support from Shimano. They believe in my mission to save the world through better shredding, and I appreciate their help. But most of the Shimano parts I use — ever since forever and even today — are purchased with my own money through a local bike shop. I recently bought XT brakes for my S-Works Fuse and Zee brakes and XT drivetrain for my Enduro. Again, I appreciate Shimano’s help, but I don’t wait for it. If I need parts that work for me, I buy them.
If all goes well (either with Shimano or my businesses), I’ll be rocking the XTR 1x drivetrain with Wide Range cassette, XTR chain guide, XTR 4-piston brakes, and XTR trail pedals. Hashtag ride with impunity.
Today a RideLogic bike setup client reached out wondering which size Ibis Ripmo to buy. I did a fit for his Mojo HD3 a while back — and he loves it — so I have good numbers for him.
I’m looking to replace my sons 26×2.3 tires. He rides mostly DH and at bootleg which is rocky. Looking for a tough tire. I see the minion dhf seems to only come in 2.5. Being fairly new to all this I was looking for some recommendations and information. How do I know if the 2.5 will fit the rim/bike ok?