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Changing chainring size when shortening cranks

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Lee,

Thanks for the RideLogic bike setup consultation. Two rides in with the new bar and I’m definitely adjusting, but it’s a way different feel than it used to be. Really liking it, and a lot of moves feel easier (as long as my legs are up for it). I’ve obviously taken a deep dive here, so why not dive all the way.

My next thing I’m looking at is crank length. You talk about switching from 30 to 28 teeth for a switch from 175 to 165. I’m considering going to 155. I currently have a 32 tooth and 170, I believe. How many teeth would I need for a 155mm crank?

Thanks,

Ben

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Risse Racing shock on my bike?

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Hey Lee,

I was wondering if you’re willing to give your opinion on this. If not, no worries.

I may need to get my rear shock rebuilt. Since it is an old model, the rebuild kit isn’t available from Fox.

Fox pointed me to Risse Racing.

Do you have any opinions about Risse racing? Or any experience with them?

I’ve seen mixed reports on the web about them, so I’m wondering how much effort I should put into finding another option.

Thank you,

Kent

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Measuring RAAD on a bike

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Hi Lee,

I’m enjoying the book Dialed: the secret math of a perfect mountain bike setup and really appreciate the MTB specific and rider-centric approach to bike fitting. I was wondering if you can guide me toward how to accurately measure my RAAD? There’s plenty of info in the book on how it should be set, but I’m not clear on the best way to measure it. Any recommended tool? Protractor devices and angle finders are generally not very long and would likely lack precision if trying to measure from the center point of the bottom bracket.

My RAD is prefect, surprisingly, with a fully stock bike (Large 2021 Epic EVO), so I’m afraid to tinker with the wrong adjustments and just end up messing up my RAD by trying to dial in my RAAD. Any tips on accurate measuring would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
Matt

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What size Nukeproof Mega 290 should I ride?

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Hey Lee!

I’m going to be getting a nuke proof Mega 290. I’m kinda a outlier. I’m 6″4″ 260 lb. I’m in shape and lean. Just a big dude. Most of my height is in my torso with a 36 biking inseam. 32 pants inseam. How can I measure for my torso correctly?
I am enduro racer with weekend all mountain. I am registered for big mountain enduro races this year. My goal is to beat all the 20 year olds and take the podium from the masters class 🙂 and be a racer even at 45. It’s my dream!
Cheers!
BTW- thank you for your program and skill sets has made a world of difference!!!!

Scott

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Has the bike industry forgotten smaller riders?

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Hello Lee,

I am a new member of the Lee Likes Bikes MTB School but have followed you for a while and  read your book probably close to 8-9 years ago. Still have it and review it from time to time.

I am  55, and have been riding for most of my adult life (MTB/Rd/Tri).

I have been wanting to buy a new mountain bike for years, but at 58 inches tall and 95 lbs, I have been challenged and frustrated.

The last bike I purchased, which is my current one,  was in 2010 or 2011; a Pivot mach 4 in XS ( yes 26″). I purchased it sight unseen. At the time I felt it was too big, ( compared to my hard tail Mojo – which I LOVED).

In the last 5 years or so, I have attempted to test ride different rigs. Out of the handful I have tried (availability being the primary issue), none feel like they fit. Has the industry forgotten about shorter statured riders, or is there something out there?

I keep looking online at various manufacturer’ sites, but what looks like a possibility on paper,  may not always the case.

Would I be able to find a resource on your site that would lead me the right direction?

Not really sure how to start. I appreciate your time,

Marlene

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Using the bike trainer for integrated MTB training

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Lee,
For the last two seasons, I have trained on TrainerRoad, which frankly, I feel is too narrow-minded of an approach for MTB, and the ROI is weak. I’m ready to take on a more MTB specific “overall” approach to training. Now that I’m a member of the Lee Likes Bikes MTB School, where do you suggest I start? “Base” and “3”, maybe? Myabe stick with TR Low Volume, but add one of your weight plans?
Thanks! Looking forward to this!
Scott

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Yet another rider on a bike that’s too big

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Hi Lee,
I’ve recently purchased your book Dialed to help me try to understand better where I’m at with my current mountain bike, all the changes in frame geometry (not to mention suspension) in the past five or so years, and now the changes literally in how people ride.
I’ve been riding a long time, which may be part of the problem. I’m a 50 year old woman who got her first mtb back in the days of the 26″ wheel. I rode and raced xc for years, mostly on a singlespeed 29er. And then I got into a really big wreck – I don’t race anymore. Still riding though and I love all the suspension being offered by manufacturers now. Last year before shit hit the fan I bought myself a Pivot Switchblade. I just love it. But… when I went to test ride the demos, the XS felt ridiculously small, uncomfortably so. My husband said it looked like I was on a kids bike. The small felt pretty good. The deal is, I am 5’2″. The size chart says I’m totally within the range for the XS, not even on the cusp of small. So, based on my initial impression, I went and bought the small anyway because I just didn’t like how the XS felt.
Fast forward a year of really learning how to ride my amazing new bike – I can ride so much more stuff I can’t believe it. But, there are times on the trail, mostly steep or technical or both (up or down) where I suddenly feel like I’ve got a shitton of bike underneath me and it just feels really unwieldy, hard to manage, clumsy. I started looking into sizing and the fact that I’d colored out of the lines by buying a larger bike than Pivot recommended for my height, which lead me to your book.
I measured from my knuckle to the floor in the stance you specified. 77cm. Bike from BB to midpoint between grip throughline, 80cm. SO… does this mean that I truly am on a bike that’s too large? According to the equation you also suggested, (height x 4.6) = 724.5. Is this so much l lower than my knuckle to floor measurement because my legs are long?
Anyway, do you have any advice? I realize a long travel 29er isn’t going to be a spry, ‘playful’ type of bike and I really should be on something more like the 5.5 – but size will still matter for that if I decide to buy another bike (cringe).
Thanks for such a good manual for evaluating frame fit!
Best regards,
Lisa

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Incorporating RipRow with spin bike and strength training

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Lee

1st I’m 5ft 11 in and 260. I own a Riprow and a Nordic Track bike. I have the tools to succeed and I love to ride my bike. I’m stronger than last year. But my question is how can I utilize the Riprow better. Should I workout daily with it? Should I use it in conjunction with strength workouts? I would like to be the best rider possible by next season here in Bend, Oregon. I have goals and riding aspirations and want to be a success story.

Can you give any suggestions on how to improve physically on the bike and on the trail? My financial situation doesn’t allow me to have a lot of subscriptions. Riprow and spin bike were not cheap but that’s what I have.

Thank you in advance for your help.

John

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Help me get back into a manual

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Hi Lee

I’m not getting over my “fear” to lean back properly for manuals.  Or rather, to shift my weight back.
I know about keeping arms straight, not pulling up so much, pre-loading and then pushing back, but i’m not committed enough.  Feels feeble as there’s so little risk of things going wrong.  (Using flats so that’s also limiting damage.)
I’m getting my wheelies done pretty well, although I think I can also move my centre of gravity back some more.
Is there some mental image i can use to get me to move back?
I’ve even tried moving back in an “L”: down first, then back.
I’m pretty short (5’7″) so arm reach apparently will make it a bit more difficult.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
JL

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Speed + Gnar + New Group = Fried Brain

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Hi Lee,

The other day I rode with a different group of riders on a trail I’ve never ridden. It was dry and loose, rutted, and littered with gnar. Which, of course, is Rad. Being the guy that was unfamiliar with the trail (and probably attempting to fight above my weight class) I was the slowest rider. I also crashed the most.  I definitely pushed my limit on a few sections and the lizard in my head was not happy. I felt myself riding off the back and could not always correct in time to save it. My brain was fried on those sections.

This was the first time I reverted back to lizard auto pilot in a very long time. I’ve been in the same situation before but without smoking my brain stem and eating dirt.  Now I’m questioning what the heck went wrong. Does this ever happen to high level riders? Not that I’m anywhere near high level status but it just made me curious whether or not this affects all riders or just average joes. Of course, any recommendations you have for preventing this from happening again are more than welcome.

Thanks,
Keoni

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To BMX or not to BMX?

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Hi Lee,

My name is Gavin, I emailed you with some questions about mountain biking a few years ago and I have another question for you now. I have been much more serious about mountain biking the past few years, and I bought myself a 2016 cannondale habit just after I emailed you last. I have been looking at maybe buying a dirt jumper for a while now but half a year ago I moved to Washington, Connecticut. The area I am in has 3 bmx tracks within an hour so I am trying to figure out if I should get a dirt jump bike or a bmx bike. Having a dirt jumper where I live would be fun because I live on a boarding school campus, but with the bmx tracks near me and the lower price of a bmx bike, I am quite torn. I would really appreciate it if you could help me out with this.

Thanks,
Gavin

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Is this too much clay for a pump track?

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Hi Lee,

I purchased your excellent book Welcome to Pump Track Nation v2 (hardcover) because my son and I are building a pump track in our backyard. I was wondering if I could ask you a question. I’ve gotten a dirt sample from a friend who’s got an excavator and can deliver it to me. I did your ball jar dirt test, and while I clearly see the clay (62.5%) it’s above another layer (37.5%), which is undifferentiated. I can’t figure out, by looking at your photo in the book, whether that bottom layer sand or silt. Or could it be both? If you could check out this photo and let me know what you think, I would be super grateful! (I wish I lived in Boulder so I could take one of your lessons – I may head out that way next summer anyways, so I might be able to squeeze one in). Also, I live in VT, is 62.5% clay too much for an environment where it can rain a fair amount?

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