All the sweet bikes and parts. Mmm … parts.
Dear Lee:
First off, thanks for sharing your wisdom in Mastering Mountain Bike Skills — I’m doing my best to suck less.
I ride a Specialized Stumpjumper FSR 29er and am wondering if your advice on handlebar position (both in the book and with your lovely graphic on the website) applies equally to 29ers? Or do the larger wheels imply lower bars?
Thanks in advance for your thoughts. I hope all is well with you.
Best,
Scott T
I’m excited about a new bike. A special new bike that will rail trails, slay pump tracks and spread the braaap gospel.
Hi Lee,
You know the Specialized product line inside out and you dig both the ups and the downs, so I figure you’re the man for this question.
I’m riding an old 6″ Horst-link frame with outdated geometry in the form of a skyscraper-high BB and steepish head angle. To make things worse, I can only drop the seat 2 1/4″. Things go from fun to terrifying whenever the trails get steep.
I also have a full-on downhill bike, so I don’t need a “One Bike” bike, but I do prefer the mini-DH feel. My preferred trails are often on the steep and rocky end of the cross-country spectrum and free of any noteworthy stunts. I’m about 175 lbs, so no special considerations for rider weight.
The Enduro was a leading candidate until I saw the Stumpjumper Evo, which seems like a perfect mix of cross-country efficiency and mini-DH geometry. My concern is that the frame and fork stiffness might not let the bike take full advantage of its geometry. The Enduro is only a little heavier and climbs pretty well, but the BB is a fair bit higher and I have no need for the added strength.
I’d love to hear your thoughts on this and thanks for the years of outstanding advice, discussion, and enthusiasm from your site!
-Ryan
Lee,
I have been looking for an adjustable seatpost in a 27.2 for my Fisher X-Cal. I know that Gravity Dropper is a good one and is on the list, but I was also wondering if you had heard of the Kind Shock I7-R Remote-Adjust Seatpost? When you get a change let me know what you know about it/ think about it. I also wrote a little note to the people at Fox doing my best “please, please, please” for a 27.2 to be added to their prototypes of adjustable posts to come out for the 2012 year. No word on that yet, I guess I should have added one more please. Thanks for any information.
Jeff
Indoor training, power meters, threshold wattage, road climbing and gyroscopic musings are all fine and dandy, but tomorrow I’m coaching a young downhill racer, and it’s time to Ride with a capital R.
Hi Lee,
I have always wanted a new 36 van 180, but have always been on a budget (i’m 17 years old). I was on pinkbike and some guy was selling a fairly new 36 van 180 RC2 for $650. Only issue is, there is a small chip in the stanchion. I was wondering if the price of the fork would be worth it for me to buy it as is. I want to know if you think there will be any repercussions for buying this fork. Do you think this small chip will affect the fork? (the seller claims it has no effect on the fork) Here is a link to the pic: http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/5800314/
Thanks!
Matt
To ride flat pedals well, you have to let your feet move with the bike and terrain. Your feet have to be supple.
Check out 1:52 to 1:55 on this beautiful “Find – The Mountain Bike Movie” trailer.
Logan, a coaching client and beginning rider from Colorado Springs, is rocking a $600 Kona Blast hardtail. He’s learning to Ride (capital R) before he buys his 6-inch dream bike. Here are the tweaks I recommended for him and his Blast.
Hi Lee,
I have read elsewhere that handlebars should be 1″ below or about even with the saddle height. On my 6″ travel all mountain type bike the fork has adjustable travel. If I need to weight the front end while climbing I can lower the fork. Going downhill I can put the fork back up and stay more behind the bars keeping my hands light and feet heavy. I run a short 70mm stem and 1.5″ rise bars which puts the bars about 1″ higher than my saddle and seems to work great. I tried lowering the bars by removing spacers and felt like I was leaning too far forward going downhill which felt a little sketchy. Is it considered more of a personal preference thing or is this even important at all?
Thanks, Jeff
In last week’s cyclocross lesson with Brandon Dwight, national CX champ and owner of Boulder Cycle Sport, the first question I asked was,
“What tire pressure should I run?”
I’m looking to buy a downhill bike. I am currently looking at a stock 2007 demo 7 that’s going for 1500. The owner does say that there is a small dent on the down tube “an inch long and a third of an inch deep”. I am a light rider (130 lbs) and I’m wondering if this will affect the integrity of the frame, and if the asking price is reasonable.
Thanks
Joseph
Hi Lee,
I’m curious to what BMX bike would you recommend for me. I’m 43 and been out of the sport since 1985. I was an local semi pro (17+ expert/a-pro open) until I broke my knee and moved on to MX and three/four wheelers and then eventually national level Jetski racing. I see bikes have changed. My son is now 5 and riding and I’m going to get him a Micro, he has few normal BMX bikes now, but I don’t know what adults are riding? I’m not really interested in a 20” right now, I remember cruisers being cool back in ’85. I’m 5’ 10” and going to weigh 170 in a month or two! I do have a couple of MTB’s I race now and then. Giant Anthem full suspension and a GT Zaskar race hard tail.
Also, I raced MX for many many years and the front brake was the most important brake and when I raced BMX (at least 4 times a week) we used the front brake, tracks look faster than the old days. What gives the new bikes don’t come with front brakes?
Thanks,
John
