Strong chains for 4X racing
Hey Lee,
What is the best chain for 4x out there? I’ve been snappin’ my Shimano chains and it hurts.
Thanks,
Ron
Hey Ron.
I feel your pain. My awesome power has snapped new Dura-Ace chains out of the gate — it’s a great chance to talk smack, but it ain’t cool.
Easy: I’ve been happy with SRAM chains. Everything from low end to high end seems to hold up. By the way, make sure your chain goes as straight as possible from your ring back to your “Power Cog.”
Doable: Lopes once told me KMC chains are really strong.
Drastic:Run a wider, stronger 8-speed chain with an 8-speed cassette. You don’t need nine gears for 4X.
Ultimate:Profile Racing makes a hub with a 6-speed cassette that uses an 8-speed chain. Only $255.
Improbable: Back off the power, tough guy!
Your the right man to ask. Thanks for the great feedback!
Sram 951 and below will not hold up to 4X racing. Above that you should be fine.
Connex makes a strong 9 sdp chain if you don’t want to change your bike that much. I’ve known people to run that chain on single speeds.
I agree with Lee about the chainline problem. I used to snap a chain on nearly every day of 4x proctice until I figured out how aweful my chainline was. I ended using BMX cranks because the bottom bracket spacing was adjustable and that helped. Also I got away from Shimano chains. I am happy with my Sram.
Have not yet try Connex but I think I will.
wippermans don’t break either, and they come in cool colors
Coming from a BMXer’s point of view I was turned on to the Scrams from a freind. The 8 speed chain is strong as can be and doesn’t stretch as much either. I now run them on all of my bikes.
I run a SRAM PC-951 on my 4x bike. I also use profile bmx cranks so I can keep my chain line as straight as possible. I also change my chain after every practice/qualifing and run a new chain on race day. In the long run it is cheaper than sitting at home with a separated shoulder or broken coller bone. Also find the right gear range. I typically only shift once or twice. There is good news – if your breaking chains, your got mad power!
Hey gang. Keith knows his stuff.
BTW, many pros do the same — they run a new chain for each practice and another new one for each race.
See, it’s expensive to be powerful …
I have been using Shimano chains exclusivly for 2 years, with great results. I run the Ultegra/XT level 9sp chain. I find it shifts better, and lasts longer than SRAM. That said, I agree with most posts on how to minimize your chain problems.
You must ONLY break the chain on the original break point, and ALWAYS use a new pin when re-installing Shimano chains.
Chainline is critical. If it’s off, you will break chains no matter what chain you use.
Don’t shift under load, this will ruin a chain quickly.
Replace your chain as often as you can afford. Go to your local shop who will have a chain-checker tool. If it indicates 50-75% wear, replace it. This will save your drive-train too, which will wear to mesh with a worn chain over time.
I have been using Shimano chains exclusivly for 2 years, with great results. I run the Ultegra/XT level 9sp chain. I find it shifts better, and lasts longer than SRAM. That said, I agree with most posts on how to minimize your chain problems.
You must ONLY break the chain on the original break point, and ALWAYS use a new pin when re-installing Shimano chains.
Chainline is critical. If it’s off, you will break chains no matter what chain you use.
Don’t shift under load, this will ruin a chain quickly.
Replace your chain as often as you can afford. Go to your local shop who will have a chain-checker tool. If it indicates 50-75% wear, replace it. This will save your drive-train too, which will wear to mesh with a worn chain over time.
i use sram or connex/wipperman (the same people),
but its all about chainline, if ur finding ur pulling the side plates off, they ur chain line is nasty bad, either use bmx cranks for play around with bb axel lengths, or even put spacers under the righthand cup of the bb and use a l.h cup with out a shoulder,
as for snapping chains it hurts, i know and there is nothing more embarasing that going over the bars or cracking ur nuts outta the gate
First advice not mentioned here: don’t use too little chainrings. If you use a 32 teeth chainring instead of a 38 teeth one you 20% more force on your chain. So if you can’t solve your problems with snapping chains you should think about using even a 40t chainring.
I snapped some chains and it seemed to me that Sram chains are weaker than Shimano LX, the Powerlink seems to be a weak point.
No doubt that rings with more teeth place less pressure on each tooth — and each link that’s on the ring.
But I think the chains are breaking off the ring, maybe at the point just before the chain climbs onto the ring, where the link is being bent. I think. I need to ask the chain experts at SRAM and Shimano.
Any wisdom out there?
I’m not talking about the pressure, I’m talking about the tension on the chain. Due to the law of the lever there is more tension on the chain when using a smaller chainring.
Oh yeah, of course. Something else to think about …