Help: I’m building a new wheelset
And now for a mish-mash of tire, tube and rim questions:
I’m at work with a deadline fast approaching, the kid has the swine flu — I’m pinnin-it man…
I’ll keep it short–I’m building-up a Pivot Mach 5. I ride in the Northeast–rocky , rooty, some slow technical, some let it rip sections. I weight ~ 185 geared-up. I’ll be using a new Fox 140 RLC FIT 15QR, so I need a new front wheel, which means I need a new wheel set. I have a set of Chris King hubs to use–question is, do I go tubeless, Stan’s rims and tubeless, or tube. What width rim is good for me (I ride Nevgals 2.35 front, 2.1 rear (Should I go 2.35 in the rear also))? Stan’s makes a pretty cool looking enduro rim that is 27mm wide and pretty light. If I go Stan’s, do I benefit more with regular tires and Stan’s tire sealant, or use tubeless tires??? Please enlighten me as to the pros and cons of the different set-ups.
Good luck with the twins, and I can’t wait for the two new books–WFO (seems only the older guys know what that means!)
PS The sooner you can answer this, the sooner I can complete the build and rip this thing!
That’s a whole lot of questions crammed into a small space. OK, real quick to you can get building:
I guess those Chris Kings will work for, like, the rest of your life. Great hubs.
I tried hard to go tubeless a few years ago, but it proved to be such a pain I’m back to tubes. I was DH Racer Boy back then, and I had tons of problems with cut sidewalls, beads torn off rims (braaap!) and even failed rim seams. As a matter of fact, my Mavic DeeMax pulled that last move in a race, and it cost me several hundred dollars in lost podium steps. Not to mention needing compressed air, sealant, blah, blah, blah. As often as I was changing tires, tubeless was just too much to worry about.
I now rock tubes with pretty high pressure and semi-burly tires. The Specialized Control series has been a godsend for me. Light enough. Durable enough.
More and more people swear by tubeless, and the systems seem to be getting easier and more reliable. Plus there’s the potentially lower pressure, smoother ride, better traction and reduced pinch flats. (Brian Lopes was anti-tubeless for a long time, but he how rocks Stans for trail riding. That says a lot.)
So, what the heck, try tubeless. If that sucks, you can always run tubes.
You’ll get a better seal with less sealant if you rock tubeless-compatible tires. They’re burlier, too.
Bigger! A man of your kung fu should be rocking 2.3s on both ends.
27mm sounds about right. That’s what I run with my Eskar 2.3s.
I dunno man, there are lots of good rims out there. That said:
– I’ve heard good things about the Stan’s rims. They seem simple and smart.
– If you ride super hard, rims are disposable. Be careful how much money you attach to the ends of those spokes.
(Back to those DeeMaxes. Mavic makes great rims. I paid full retail for those bastards, thinking “OK no more screwing around.” But they have a weak point at the rim weld, and my rear failed at the wrong time. That cost me prize money and considerable frustration. That same impact would have bent — not broken — a softer, less expensive rim. Still angry!)
– As a Sun-sponsored rider, I’ve had great luck with my Charger 27 wheelset. Its Equalizer rims are plenty light, plenty strong and pretty inexpensive — about half the cost of Stans.
One thing I’ve learned about bike stuff in general and wheels in particular:
The supertrick stuff is supercool — DeeMax! Yellow! Sick! — as long as it isn’t broken.
Trying to find a certain rim strip, or rim, or spoke, or tire, can be a pain. Unless you’re Joe Sponsored Dude or you don’t break stuff, standard hubs and rims are the way.
Slap any good rim on those Kings. Try tubeless. Rip it!
Know more. Have more fun!
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I run the Stans Enduros in upstate NY with a 2.3 Nevegal tubless rear and a 2.4 Blue Groove tube tire (but tubeless) in the front. With the CK hubs that would make for a very nice wheel set. These are very sturdy and light rims. A lot of my friends have had good results with them too. As for flats, we ride some very rocky trails and have had a few here and there but the tire sealant seals the small ones and I am not sure if tubes would prevent the big tears. Always carry a spare tube though 😉
Love my DT swiss 5.1’s, 28mm wide and 500gs. Good mix of width and weight. I have rocked them (with king hubs) on my DH, DJ and now trail bike and they are going strong 2 years in. I have found that if a rim weighs 500 or 650 grams, when things go bad it doesnt matter. So I choose not to cary the extra weight. Im on tubes (I switch tires a lot depending on riding area) but know a lot of people running the Stans kit with great results.
I’ve heard great things about the DT Swiss 5.1s. I know one prominent pro DH racer who also ran them for DH, DJ and trail.
The 5.1s would be a good choice, also might consider Halo freedoms, word is there tough enough for light duty DH at only 525grams. Another choice is WTB laser disc trail rims if you can get em cheap, also around 500 grams and 27mm wide. A wider rim is a wonderful thing, get something around 500g and 27mm + wide and it will be a great wheel. I have been beating the tar out of a WTB laser disc trail rear wheel for a while now. All I can say is I wish I stepped up to a 27mm wide rim ages ago. Sounds like you already on the right track. I agree with Lee dont spend a lot on a Rim cause they are some what disposable.
Full disclosure I am the lead technician at an REI bike shop that does a huge amount of WTB products and get to buy WTB stuff at less than whole sale prices hence my slant.
Thanks Lee, Lou, and MW,
I think I’m going to try the Stan’s Enduro’s with regular Nevi’s and Stan’s goop (as Lee said, I can always add tubes). Have a great Thanksgiving all.