Specialized P.3 vs. P.2 Cro-Mo

Hi Lee
I have your Mastering Mountain Bike Skills, and Pump track e-book. Both are excellent, and I have learned a lot from them. I wish I lived close enough to you to take some skills clinics. Do you ever come to Canada (Ontario)?

Just a quick question about Specialized P.bikes, I can get a P.2 Cro-Mo frame for a good price, but how will it compare to the P.3 you ride?



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Hey Stefan,

Thanks for the kind words. I doubt I’ll be teaching in Canada any time soon, but I am working on a scheme to seed the world with LLB Certified Coaches. Stay tuned on this site.

The P.2 Cr-Mo and P.3 are essentially identical. The only differences:

– The P.3 is aluminum. P.2 Cr-Mo is made of Cr-Moly steel (duh). Steel bikes tend to feel livelier than aluminum ones. I have a custom steel XC hardtail, and that thing is snappy like a leather whip.

– The P.2 Cr-Mo is supposed to be more durable than the P.3, for super-aggro crazy-style dirt jumping, park, etc. BTW: I’ve never heard of a P.3 breaking.

– The P.2 Cr-Mo is significantly heavier than the P.3.

– The P.2 has slightly less standover clearance. Slightly. See below.

P.3 is black. P.2 Cr-Mo is behind in white. The bikes’ geometries are almost identical.

Get whatever you can afford. Support your local shop. Braaaap on.

— Lee

2 replies
  1. Stefan says:

    Hey Lee
    Thanks for the info, I’m going to my LBS tomorow to see if I can aford the P-3, if not i guess it will be a P-2 Cr-Mo.
    Keep this great site running, I check in every morning befor work when I am at home.

  2. Stefan says:

    Hi Lee

    I ended up getting the short p.2 cr-mo. I love it, I see what you mean by snappy. This baby rocks.

    I am having trouble turning sharp(u-turn in driveway turning back down after a wall ride and such) my foot gets blown off the pedal by the front wheel. I am 5’10” and 33″ or 34″ inseem (not quite sure how to get the correct measurment), I have a size 9.5 to 10 shoe (5-10 impact) and have to contort my foot to miss the pedal. Would the long frame fix or just reduce the problem?
    I have a fox 32 talas (had it hanging around off another bike) saint hubs, rear deraileur, and rear brake. I tried it without a front break for a week or so with bad results, I ran into all kinds of stuff because I couldn’t slow down quik enough. Got a cheep bb7 front brake, now all is well (i am used to 8″ front brake with metalick pad) now 3 fingers full pull I can just get the front wheel to lock on pavement, as on my other bike I can lock it up with one finger and mayby 3/4 full pull.
    Keep on Braaaping

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