I built a pump track in my front yard. Thanks for all of your advise, the track rocks. Your ebook made it happen. I used your plan to start and now I’m adding on another loop. Building the thing has become as much fun as riding it. When I put the shovel down long enough to take some pictures I will. Thanks again.
Hey Lee, I am six feet tall and have been running large dh bikes for years. Would a medim be too small? I do come from a BMX background and like to flick the bike when possible. I was wondering if the smaller bike would be more unstable at speeds?
thanks to the tips and inspiration found in your book, this website and the MTB strength training program I’ve become a better rider and enjoy riding much more, without spending a fortune in bling components….excluding a new fork but that’s a different story .
Anyways, as I progress I feel my pumping technique could be much better as far as timing and fore aft movement goes. I think an in depth article on the subject would be very helpful for a lot of people and attract even more bikers here (I tried with google and found not much).
Hi Lee
Have you seen the Nuvinci drive train from Fallingbrook Technologies? http://www.fallbrooktech.com/02_Demo.asp#
It looks good but, I would like to try one.
I run a Saint derailer and it is bomb proof. When I first got it I hit a 3-4″ diamiter tree that had been cut off just a bit higher than my axel, so it caught the derailer full on and stopped the bike dead from like 10 km/hr(aprox., I was flying and in pain for days after) and I got ejected over the bars. I expected to see the derailer hanging or at least pretzeled. To my delight it was intact and diden’t even need an adjustment, since then I try to only run Saint (my bike is almost all Saint). Sorry about the spelling.
Thanks
Stefan
Hey, Lee. Your answer to my burnin’ quads question a while ago was really helpful, so here’s another one: hand fatigue. I recently moved to New England, and the terrain around here is steep, slow, and technical, and I find myself relying on my rear brake a lot more than I’m used to. Lately my right hand has been getting so fatigued that I’ll have to stop and rest in the middle of a descent. I’ve noticed a loss of grip strength off the bike, too. I put on a bigger rotor, and tried moving my levers around on the bar, but nothing really helps. Any suggestions?
Lee,
Got any updates on the cx braaaping you were doing a while ago? Been thinking about ditching the street/jump bhike because it is not nice to my bones and something like the tricross seems super fun and practical.
Hey Lee,
Great site ya got! Hey I’ve been out of serious bike stuff (just playing at the BMX tracks and skateparks with the kiddos) for awhile. Anyway, I’m trying to find more info on 4X for ‘08, like is there a series in CO and if so, where?
Hey Lee,
I just recently serviced my Fox TALAS fork and i put in fox’s 7wt susspension fluid. My question is what is the diffrence in the weight of the oil? And what is best for XC and DH racing through full on extream Freeride.
Thanks,
Chris
I have a question for you and Brian Lopes. I’m looking at upgrading fork on my Blur LT from 07 TALAS 32 to something burlier…either TALAS 36 or MARZ 55. I’m 200 with gear and ride fairly aggressive on technical, rocky stuff in NORCAL.
So, the question I have for both of you is, how do these forks compare in performance?
can you forward this along to BL for me? thanks and merry xmas!
Hey Lee,
My riding has progressed along way because of the lesson I had with you in June. I learned alot. Anyway, the Fox Triad shock on my 06 Stumpjumper is having issues. It has been acting odd for a few weeks, and the other day began to not rebound all the way. I deflated it and pumped it up to 250 and it only came up about half way. How do I fix this, or should i take this apportunity to uppgrade to something like the DHX Air.
What’s your opinion on the pros and cons of Fruita vs Moab at the end of February? I am a trail rider from Minnesota, and am looking for rock, scenery and a change from home.
I like MTBiking and moto like you , and certainly favour MTB. The question I always have is the prices of MTB. A motor bike is not much dearer than a top of the line MTB. I thought motorbike has a lot more technology and R&D costs associate with it. Are MTB companies just ripping us off?
Do you know why certain tires don’t have the bead strength to be tubeless converted and why some rims seem to be the same way? I’m not getting the physics. Isn’t the force applied to both parts the same with a tube? PSI is PSI right?
I’m thinking of upgrading my beast of a frame (Azonic steelhead) to an aluminum Specialized P1,P2, or P3 frame.
I’ll probably pickup a used one as there are a lot out there. My question is what is the difference between these frames and which one is best for me? I would use it for messing around in my yard on the pump track, dirt jumps and basic trials stuff. I’m 6′3″, 190 lbs and will be 45 this year so I don’t get too crazy any more but I still like to jump. Also what is a good cheap fork that you could recommend for that kind of riding? Thanks
In all likelyhood I will be moving to the P.R.o.B. for fall semester (super stoked). I have three different rigs but probably only room to bring two. If you had to choose any two bikes out of a Bottlerocket (set up for mini-dh/trail), a cx bike, and a dirtjumper, which two would you pick. Ahhhh, the choices.
I sent this to your email. Just want to make sure you get it. This is video of the greatest pump track in the world, mine. Thanks for all the info on building you were a great resource .Man these things are supper fun.
thanks again dylan renn
I’m having a slight problem, and I’m wondering if you can enlighten me on what the best solution would be. I’m running a 2006 Manitou Travis Triple Intrinsic 180, the fork with the longest name and a longer list of issues. I badly need to get it rebuilt, but Manitou has neglected to answer my phone calls or emails. I just need to find someone that can tear it down, rebuild it, and also give me a new lower crown/steerer assembly. I’ve been drooling over the new 36 Van RC2, but I can’t afford it right now, it’s between that and a new snowboard and I need the snowboard a little more than the fork, and the snowboard’s price also allows me to pick up a set of Juicy 7s. Do you have any advice regarding who I should send my fork to? Cheers.
Well…your article on stem length and bar rise was very well done, but I’ve got a question;Stack height…does it matter?
I race 4X and dual slalom. I recently went from a 20mm stack to a 40mm stack out of curiousity(50mm stem with a 1.5″ bar rise). I haven’t had a chance to hit the course with it, but justing riding it around the neighborhood I can tell that this will be very different than the way I was running the cockpit.
I’m 72″ tall and I’ve got long arms and legs. I ride a Dialled Bikes Holeshot with a 22.3 TT as well.
I am the proud owner of a Spec Enduro SL 08. I have heard rumblings of fork problems w/ the E150 fork. I have blown one cartrige after only a few rides. It was a shop bike that had been ridden a few times. I sold my stable of 3 bikes, XC,AM, & Dh, and now I have the Enduro and a Cannondale judge. The bike climbs better than my old Kona, is lighter, descends better, yet I’m still a little bit leary of the air fork and a little less w/ the shock. I have been a fan of coil shocks but I’m on the fence so far. What do you think. BRaaap. ex mxer.
Dear Lee,
I’m not racing, just riding the xc and dh up and down, roots, single track, dips, climbs, etc…Since it is not a race, is it better in your opinion to use Specialized Lo Pro Mag pedals and Five Ten impact shoes instead of the shimano clipless??? My DX clipless with platforms seem to be hitting every root and I used to ride cages in the old days anyway, I do like being cliped in and not worring about a foot slipping off the pedalo though, so are the sticky shoes and lo pro mag pedals safer and a better ride for not racing just having fun???
I keep hearing you say “….Longer is more XC-able; shorter is more braaapable and a longer bike with a shorter stem is a great compromise.” You said the same thing in your book!
I believe you but I never really understand why?
(Assuming we are talking about the same bike with same geometry but in different size!)
XC- Able
If the seat angle remain the same, why do I need a longer cockpit for XC? How does a longer cockpit benefit me on climbs?
If we maintain the same effective cockpit length by altering the stem, is there any difference in XC ability between a large or medium size frame?
Brapable
If the wheel base remain the same, why a shorter stem makes it more braaapable?
If we were talking about handling, would a smaller bike with long stem & short wheelbase handle better or larger bikes with short stem but a long wheelbase handle better? And why?
I am not sure how many of your readers would know him but Steve DeLay the founder of SWD Racing www.swdracing.com is in a bad spot now and could use all of the good vibes that could be sent his way.
Hi Lee,
I haven’t been here in a while, but Spring is around the corner and I am about to order more dirt for my somewhat settled pumptrack. My question is…
What is the best way to “mesh” new dirt with the old, hard packed track?? Should I wet the old track and put the dry dirt on top of the mud and then re-water? I’m afraid that I will end up with a bunch of new, loose dirt over the hard stuff. Thanks Lee!
There has been a lot of talk about Sea Otter lately, and I know many of us are going to race. I noticed last year there were a couple of people who put ‘leelikesbikes.com’ as their sponsor.
Do you mind us doing this? I know we may not be ’sponsored’ by you, but perhaps we all can help spread The Love. It is the least we could do after you have answered our questions, written us books and taught us to be better riders.
I might go down and help man a booth for a friend, but I may just race the XC as I hear the course is beautiful and otherwise closed to the public. But don’t expect a podium from me, I am going to wait until the pack has sprinted away and then give the fun bits of the course a good braappping!
Just got the Moto trainer I bought off your site, great product. I wanted freelap poles, but couldn’t quite afford them, yet! haha. Quick question, I have an Intense Socom with a DHX 5 and a Boxxer WC. Pro pedal is basically Low speed compression right? and using less would increase small bump sensitivity? Seems so, but I just wanted to make sure, also, Would cranking up the bottom out change the spring curve to be more progressive? or does it just effect the very last part of the stroke to keep things from clunking? Would less bottom out make it feel more linear through the stroke, but would the downside be losing some “pop”? I’ve tried a gazillion different setups trying to find the perfect one, I think I’ve found it, but I want to make sure I don’t have my wires crossed on what all these adjustments actually do. By the way, 100lbs in the chamber, 2 clicks of propedal and bottom out a turn or two in(so you can see 2 lines)
There has been a lot of discussion on your site about stem length but I was wondering about another geometry issue.
Steep seat-tube angles make it easier to climb (because you’re in a better position when the bike is aimed up) right?
So why do all mtn and free ride bikes have a slack seat-tube angle? On steep(er) descents where you’d want to be further back, you won’t be sitting on the saddle anyway.
Having the saddle more forward would seem to offer better climbing and when the seat’s dropped down, it’d be further forward and out of the way?
Just pure bike-geekness from a snow bound Minnesotan.
Lee - big fan of your writings and site, keep up the good work!
Since it’s early season here in Colorado and everyone’s starting eyeball their new dream rig (including me) - I am wondering if you can cover the basics of a good race bike fit (DH, MTX). I find myself struggling with proper top tube length these days. I’m 5′6″ and have a semi-pro license, I ride like a racer (as opposed to a freerider or huckster). I’ve been on a 22 inch Effective Top Tube DH bike for some time now, but need a new bike this year. Advice on frame size and fitting?
I’d be happy to send in pic’s for illustration.
BTW - I’m thinking about hiring you to give some instruction but I don’t have friends that can share the expense with me. Can I jump in another group? Do you have public workshops?
Hey Lee. What tires would you recommend for the dual slalom course at Sea Otter? I’m using a pair of Maxxis High Rollers in a 2.3. I was using these at Sand Hill this weekend and when I started to braap; I was losing traction in the rear a little bit. I was running about 40psi and the course was hardpacked and a bit dry. I know the soil will be different in Monterrey. What do you think?
Here’s a question for you or other readers out there. What do you recomend to make wooden surfaces less slick in a damp environment? I’ve seen chicken wire but I worry about sharp edges puncturing tires and people, especially after some rusting.
Hi Lee,
Thanks for your sound advise for “BAD IDEA: LONG TRAVEL FORK ON TRAIL HARDTAIL”.
I have in return use some of the money to get a new Mac Mahone 2″-710mm riser and Mac Mahone 50mm-5 stem (suppose to go with Thompson 50mm-0 but I’m a sucker for looks). And you know what, it ROCKS! Thanks for your advise that now I have better handling and the jump was so smoooooth.
Due to these I have been thinking of getting a new pair of rim. It is advisable to get Mac Mahone Randall wheelset for my GT Avalancce 2 cause I thought of changing the tyre to 2.3″? I heard getting a better and wider rim for the tyres can have better bike handling.
Please advise.
Oh ya, I just ordered your book via our local bookshop.
I read that squarer tyre profiles are grippier than more rounder profiles. How much truth is there is this?
I normally run 2.1 tyres on a Mavix XM117 rim - how wide a rim would I have to run to:
1) get a noticably squarer profile on my 2.1 tyres?
2) sensibly run a 2.3 tyre?
I like wearing Vans Old Skool shoes when riding but the sole is pretty flexy. Is there a stiffer insert that I could put in to make it flex less? The stiffer inserts I have seen aren’t full length which I think would work the best. Any ideas?
A little bike maintainance question concerning the hub/paw drive assembly on modern mtb wheels like mavics or azonic outlaws, etc. Since, these wheels have sealed bearings, should you put any lubrication inside the freewheel or on the drive paws? If so, should I use grease, oil, or what? (It seems like the lubricate just attacts dirt to me) Or should I just clean everything and leave it dry? After all the bearings in the wheel are sealed. Also, what about the skewers? Grease them or leave them clean and dry? Hope you can solve this mystery for me?
I am looking for a some information on freewheels and the difference between the different types of paws(sp) offered by the manufactures. I hear about 3 paw, 6 paw. Is their any advantages or disadvantages?
I am looking for something that engages quicker? What manufactures do you suggest: Shimano, Sram, etc.
I am currently running a Shimano Doere rear hub, 9 speed and a 12-32 cassette.
Love the site, love the book. I was wondering if you have had any lower back issues during the course of your cycling experience. Yesterday I was braaaping and today I feel alot of stiffness and soreness in my lower back. I never had any serious injuries to constitute any sniveling. I’m 37, slightly overweight.I ride a hard-tail similar to the P-series bikes. Usually I find that some heat therapy or even a chiropractor is good when it requires it. My question is this, could it be my technique or should I consider specific back exercises to reduce pain after braaaping? Thanks Lee. See ya’ at Sea Otter!!
Hey Lee, I have a Giant VT2 which runs a Manitou 3 ways rear shock. It will cost me a bit to get it serviced and change all of the parts….ok…I just needed an excuse to upgrade.
I’ve been looking at the Fox RP23, my questions are:
1. I am running Fox flaot RLC at the front, so, would RP23 a good match?
2. Would it run well on the VT? Or is it going to stuff up my handling?
3. Would it behave very differently? And it is going to take me some time to get used to it?
4. Final question….would it be better off sticking to Manitou 3 ways?
Thanks for the great site: it’s good therapy while waiting for the snow to melt.
In the meantime, I’ve been riding at the local skatepark and was curious if you had any tips on how to progress towards dropping into a bowl / quarterpipe. I’m in my thirties, and looking down from the coping is super intimidating.
BTW, will your new book on BMX have a section on how to ride pipes and get air?
Thanks!
PS - the two privates I did with you were the best thing I ever did for my riding.
When going into a loose corner at high speeds (with a sever drop on the other side) is it best to merely weight the outside pedal and position your body in the direction you want to go, or do you also need to push hard and down on the inside end of your bars? For whatever reason I seem to feel like I am pushing down on the right (inside) grip and kind of pulling up on the outside grip.
Hey Lee. Sorry you couldn’t make it out to Sea Otter. I myself had a blast. For my first race ever, I qualified and did ok. I didn’t come in first but I didn’t come in last either. Your book was a great help and I really appreciate the work you do. I have a question for you.
What bike in the specialized line-up would you recommend for dual-slalom/4x type stuff? I looked around on their site and thought the sx trail would be nice. I’d prefer a shorter travel full suspension if they had one. I really don’t do alot of jumps and drops that would require that kind of bike. Hopefully this is enough info.
I have a Pump Track question for the guru. I have started on a new track in the Sierra Nevada Mtn’s south of lake Tahoe. The soil is very loose and hard to get it packed in. The dirt jumps I’ve built usually take a long time to get packed. So the question is do you know about any additives to get loose soil to pack down a lot faster. I’ve gone through your sight and seen there’s chemicals the air force use for runways but i was looking for something more on the lines of natural. The soil has a lot of pine needles on the top so I have to dig down to the soil. I guess it probabally pretty loamy has small amount of small rocks and does pack down well eventually but I guess I am just impatient and want to ride the track sooner at full velocity.
I am a member of the pump track nation and loving all the help and support you have put out there for people.
thanks Dylan Renn
ron Says November 4, 2007 @ 6:04 pm
I built a pump track in my front yard. Thanks for all of your advise, the track rocks. Your ebook made it happen. I used your plan to start and now I’m adding on another loop. Building the thing has become as much fun as riding it. When I put the shovel down long enough to take some pictures I will. Thanks again.
Don Says November 5, 2007 @ 10:35 am
Hey Lee, I am six feet tall and have been running large dh bikes for years. Would a medim be too small? I do come from a BMX background and like to flick the bike when possible. I was wondering if the smaller bike would be more unstable at speeds?
Vito Says November 7, 2007 @ 11:48 am
Hi Lee,
thanks to the tips and inspiration found in your book, this website and the MTB strength training program I’ve become a better rider and enjoy riding much more, without spending a fortune in bling components….excluding a new fork but that’s a different story
.
Anyways, as I progress I feel my pumping technique could be much better as far as timing and fore aft movement goes. I think an in depth article on the subject would be very helpful for a lot of people and attract even more bikers here (I tried with google and found not much).
Thanks
Vito
Stephen Says November 12, 2007 @ 2:44 pm
Lee,
bummer bout your gums bro, hope you’re braaping in no time. I was disappointed to see that you’re dreaming bout SC single track, take a gander at this to keep you motivated http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?p=2728802#post2728802 .
Stefan Says November 25, 2007 @ 8:16 am
Hi Lee
Have you seen the Nuvinci drive train from Fallingbrook Technologies?
http://www.fallbrooktech.com/02_Demo.asp#
It looks good but, I would like to try one.
I run a Saint derailer and it is bomb proof. When I first got it I hit a 3-4″ diamiter tree that had been cut off just a bit higher than my axel, so it caught the derailer full on and stopped the bike dead from like 10 km/hr(aprox., I was flying and in pain for days after) and I got ejected over the bars. I expected to see the derailer hanging or at least pretzeled. To my delight it was intact and diden’t even need an adjustment, since then I try to only run Saint (my bike is almost all Saint). Sorry about the spelling.
Thanks
Stefan
andy Says November 28, 2007 @ 1:37 pm
http://www.vimeo.com/404608
Jesse Says December 1, 2007 @ 11:19 am
Hey, Lee. Your answer to my burnin’ quads question a while ago was really helpful, so here’s another one: hand fatigue. I recently moved to New England, and the terrain around here is steep, slow, and technical, and I find myself relying on my rear brake a lot more than I’m used to. Lately my right hand has been getting so fatigued that I’ll have to stop and rest in the middle of a descent. I’ve noticed a loss of grip strength off the bike, too. I put on a bigger rotor, and tried moving my levers around on the bar, but nothing really helps. Any suggestions?
Stephen Says December 10, 2007 @ 4:49 pm
Lee,
Got any updates on the cx braaaping you were doing a while ago? Been thinking about ditching the street/jump bhike because it is not nice to my bones and something like the tricross seems super fun and practical.
Eric Says December 13, 2007 @ 12:02 am
Hey Lee,
Great site ya got! Hey I’ve been out of serious bike stuff (just playing at the BMX tracks and skateparks with the kiddos) for awhile. Anyway, I’m trying to find more info on 4X for ‘08, like is there a series in CO and if so, where?
Thanks,
-E
chris Says December 14, 2007 @ 8:59 pm
Hey Lee,
I just recently serviced my Fox TALAS fork and i put in fox’s 7wt susspension fluid. My question is what is the diffrence in the weight of the oil? And what is best for XC and DH racing through full on extream Freeride.
Thanks,
Chris
tony Says December 21, 2007 @ 10:40 am
lee,
I have a question for you and Brian Lopes. I’m looking at upgrading fork on my Blur LT from 07 TALAS 32 to something burlier…either TALAS 36 or MARZ 55. I’m 200 with gear and ride fairly aggressive on technical, rocky stuff in NORCAL.
So, the question I have for both of you is, how do these forks compare in performance?
can you forward this along to BL for me? thanks and merry xmas!
Davis Says December 22, 2007 @ 4:53 pm
Hey Lee,
My riding has progressed along way because of the lesson I had with you in June. I learned alot. Anyway, the Fox Triad shock on my 06 Stumpjumper is having issues. It has been acting odd for a few weeks, and the other day began to not rebound all the way. I deflated it and pumped it up to 250 and it only came up about half way. How do I fix this, or should i take this apportunity to uppgrade to something like the DHX Air.
Thanks,
Davis
Tjaard Says January 8, 2008 @ 6:24 pm
Hi Lee,
What’s your opinion on the pros and cons of Fruita vs Moab at the end of February? I am a trail rider from Minnesota, and am looking for rock, scenery and a change from home.
Chay Says January 9, 2008 @ 3:46 pm
Hey Lee,
I like MTBiking and moto like you , and certainly favour MTB. The question I always have is the prices of MTB. A motor bike is not much dearer than a top of the line MTB. I thought motorbike has a lot more technology and R&D costs associate with it. Are MTB companies just ripping us off?
Chay.
Daniel Says January 23, 2008 @ 7:23 pm
Do you know why certain tires don’t have the bead strength to be tubeless converted and why some rims seem to be the same way? I’m not getting the physics. Isn’t the force applied to both parts the same with a tube? PSI is PSI right?
Walt Says January 25, 2008 @ 12:00 pm
Hi Lee,
I’m thinking of upgrading my beast of a frame (Azonic steelhead) to an aluminum Specialized P1,P2, or P3 frame.
I’ll probably pickup a used one as there are a lot out there. My question is what is the difference between these frames and which one is best for me? I would use it for messing around in my yard on the pump track, dirt jumps and basic trials stuff. I’m 6′3″, 190 lbs and will be 45 this year so I don’t get too crazy any more but I still like to jump. Also what is a good cheap fork that you could recommend for that kind of riding? Thanks
Stephen Says January 25, 2008 @ 11:16 pm
Lee,
In all likelyhood I will be moving to the P.R.o.B. for fall semester (super stoked). I have three different rigs but probably only room to bring two. If you had to choose any two bikes out of a Bottlerocket (set up for mini-dh/trail), a cx bike, and a dirtjumper, which two would you pick. Ahhhh, the choices.
peace,
Stephen
dylan Says January 26, 2008 @ 9:46 am
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MrltaTNRiiY
I sent this to your email. Just want to make sure you get it. This is video of the greatest pump track in the world, mine. Thanks for all the info on building you were a great resource .Man these things are supper fun.
thanks again dylan renn
Zack Says January 26, 2008 @ 8:30 pm
Hey Lee,
I’m having a slight problem, and I’m wondering if you can enlighten me on what the best solution would be. I’m running a 2006 Manitou Travis Triple Intrinsic 180, the fork with the longest name and a longer list of issues. I badly need to get it rebuilt, but Manitou has neglected to answer my phone calls or emails. I just need to find someone that can tear it down, rebuild it, and also give me a new lower crown/steerer assembly. I’ve been drooling over the new 36 Van RC2, but I can’t afford it right now, it’s between that and a new snowboard and I need the snowboard a little more than the fork, and the snowboard’s price also allows me to pick up a set of Juicy 7s. Do you have any advice regarding who I should send my fork to? Cheers.
Bob Burnes Says January 26, 2008 @ 9:11 pm
Hey, Lee!
Well…your article on stem length and bar rise was very well done, but I’ve got a question;Stack height…does it matter?
I race 4X and dual slalom. I recently went from a 20mm stack to a 40mm stack out of curiousity(50mm stem with a 1.5″ bar rise). I haven’t had a chance to hit the course with it, but justing riding it around the neighborhood I can tell that this will be very different than the way I was running the cockpit.
I’m 72″ tall and I’ve got long arms and legs. I ride a Dialled Bikes Holeshot with a 22.3 TT as well.
Any adivce? Thanks, Lee!
Walt Says January 26, 2008 @ 10:13 pm
Lee,
One more link for you concerning my post yesterday about the motorcycle/mtb hybrids. You gotta see this. This guy built his own!
http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=4b7e72e931b2bbe0003c3de24f80dff7&t=135255
Lor Riihimaki Says February 2, 2008 @ 8:37 pm
Hey Lee,
I am the proud owner of a Spec Enduro SL 08. I have heard rumblings of fork problems w/ the E150 fork. I have blown one cartrige after only a few rides. It was a shop bike that had been ridden a few times. I sold my stable of 3 bikes, XC,AM, & Dh, and now I have the Enduro and a Cannondale judge. The bike climbs better than my old Kona, is lighter, descends better, yet I’m still a little bit leary of the air fork and a little less w/ the shock. I have been a fan of coil shocks but I’m on the fence so far. What do you think. BRaaap. ex mxer.
Thanks,
Lor
mackai Says February 6, 2008 @ 3:13 pm
Hey Lee,
I was looking to upgrade my rear shock. I know you love the Fox RP23, but have you heard anything about the new Rock Shox Monarch 4.2? Thanks
-Ian
Brian Says February 7, 2008 @ 6:07 pm
Hey Lee,
When is that new book/ dvd coming out? Hopefully before they show bmx at the Olympics this Summer.
jay Says February 15, 2008 @ 3:30 pm
Dear Lee,
I’m not racing, just riding the xc and dh up and down, roots, single track, dips, climbs, etc…Since it is not a race, is it better in your opinion to use Specialized Lo Pro Mag pedals and Five Ten impact shoes instead of the shimano clipless??? My DX clipless with platforms seem to be hitting every root and I used to ride cages in the old days anyway, I do like being cliped in and not worring about a foot slipping off the pedalo though, so are the sticky shoes and lo pro mag pedals safer and a better ride for not racing just having fun???
Chay Says February 20, 2008 @ 4:07 pm
Hi Lee,
I keep hearing you say “….Longer is more XC-able; shorter is more braaapable and a longer bike with a shorter stem is a great compromise.” You said the same thing in your book!
I believe you but I never really understand why?
(Assuming we are talking about the same bike with same geometry but in different size!)
XC- Able
If the seat angle remain the same, why do I need a longer cockpit for XC? How does a longer cockpit benefit me on climbs?
If we maintain the same effective cockpit length by altering the stem, is there any difference in XC ability between a large or medium size frame?
Brapable
If the wheel base remain the same, why a shorter stem makes it more braaapable?
If we were talking about handling, would a smaller bike with long stem & short wheelbase handle better or larger bikes with short stem but a long wheelbase handle better? And why?
Cheers, Chay.
Ray Says February 23, 2008 @ 9:38 pm
Lee,
I am not sure how many of your readers would know him but Steve DeLay the founder of SWD Racing www.swdracing.com is in a bad spot now and could use all of the good vibes that could be sent his way.
Thanks,
Ray
pmac Says February 27, 2008 @ 11:44 am
Hi Lee,
I haven’t been here in a while, but Spring is around the corner and I am about to order more dirt for my somewhat settled pumptrack. My question is…
What is the best way to “mesh” new dirt with the old, hard packed track?? Should I wet the old track and put the dry dirt on top of the mud and then re-water? I’m afraid that I will end up with a bunch of new, loose dirt over the hard stuff. Thanks Lee!
Chris Says February 28, 2008 @ 7:13 pm
Lee,
There has been a lot of talk about Sea Otter lately, and I know many of us are going to race. I noticed last year there were a couple of people who put ‘leelikesbikes.com’ as their sponsor.
Do you mind us doing this? I know we may not be ’sponsored’ by you, but perhaps we all can help spread The Love. It is the least we could do after you have answered our questions, written us books and taught us to be better riders.
I might go down and help man a booth for a friend, but I may just race the XC as I hear the course is beautiful and otherwise closed to the public. But don’t expect a podium from me, I am going to wait until the pack has sprinted away and then give the fun bits of the course a good braappping!
What say you Lee? What say you all?
Chris.
James Says February 29, 2008 @ 7:57 pm
Just got the Moto trainer I bought off your site, great product. I wanted freelap poles, but couldn’t quite afford them, yet! haha. Quick question, I have an Intense Socom with a DHX 5 and a Boxxer WC. Pro pedal is basically Low speed compression right? and using less would increase small bump sensitivity? Seems so, but I just wanted to make sure, also, Would cranking up the bottom out change the spring curve to be more progressive? or does it just effect the very last part of the stroke to keep things from clunking? Would less bottom out make it feel more linear through the stroke, but would the downside be losing some “pop”? I’ve tried a gazillion different setups trying to find the perfect one, I think I’ve found it, but I want to make sure I don’t have my wires crossed on what all these adjustments actually do. By the way, 100lbs in the chamber, 2 clicks of propedal and bottom out a turn or two in(so you can see 2 lines)
Tjaard Says March 5, 2008 @ 12:58 pm
There has been a lot of discussion on your site about stem length but I was wondering about another geometry issue.
Steep seat-tube angles make it easier to climb (because you’re in a better position when the bike is aimed up) right?
So why do all mtn and free ride bikes have a slack seat-tube angle? On steep(er) descents where you’d want to be further back, you won’t be sitting on the saddle anyway.
Having the saddle more forward would seem to offer better climbing and when the seat’s dropped down, it’d be further forward and out of the way?
Just pure bike-geekness from a snow bound Minnesotan.
Phil Says March 6, 2008 @ 8:22 am
Lee - big fan of your writings and site, keep up the good work!
Since it’s early season here in Colorado and everyone’s starting eyeball their new dream rig (including me) - I am wondering if you can cover the basics of a good race bike fit (DH, MTX). I find myself struggling with proper top tube length these days. I’m 5′6″ and have a semi-pro license, I ride like a racer (as opposed to a freerider or huckster). I’ve been on a 22 inch Effective Top Tube DH bike for some time now, but need a new bike this year. Advice on frame size and fitting?
I’d be happy to send in pic’s for illustration.
BTW - I’m thinking about hiring you to give some instruction but I don’t have friends that can share the expense with me. Can I jump in another group? Do you have public workshops?
Thanks again!
jay Says March 6, 2008 @ 5:47 pm
do you answer these things?
leelikesbikes Says March 6, 2008 @ 6:30 pm
I answer most of them, either one-on-one or on the site.
leelikesbikes Says March 6, 2008 @ 6:38 pm
This used to be an email submit form. When the site got redesigned I wound up with this comment form. It isn’t ideal, but I have other fish to fry.
[sizzle]
dan Says March 11, 2008 @ 10:48 am
Hey Lee. What tires would you recommend for the dual slalom course at Sea Otter? I’m using a pair of Maxxis High Rollers in a 2.3. I was using these at Sand Hill this weekend and when I started to braap; I was losing traction in the rear a little bit. I was running about 40psi and the course was hardpacked and a bit dry. I know the soil will be different in Monterrey. What do you think?
Tjaard Says March 17, 2008 @ 7:50 am
Hi Lee,
Here’s a question for you or other readers out there. What do you recomend to make wooden surfaces less slick in a damp environment? I’ve seen chicken wire but I worry about sharp edges puncturing tires and people, especially after some rusting.
esteban Says March 17, 2008 @ 9:05 am
Hey Lee…we are making some progress with our pumptrack,check it out:
http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=198843
cheers!
Skyler Says March 21, 2008 @ 7:06 am
Hi Lee,
Thanks for your sound advise for “BAD IDEA: LONG TRAVEL FORK ON TRAIL HARDTAIL”.
I have in return use some of the money to get a new Mac Mahone 2″-710mm riser and Mac Mahone 50mm-5 stem (suppose to go with Thompson 50mm-0 but I’m a sucker for looks). And you know what, it ROCKS! Thanks for your advise that now I have better handling and the jump was so smoooooth.
Due to these I have been thinking of getting a new pair of rim. It is advisable to get Mac Mahone Randall wheelset for my GT Avalancce 2 cause I thought of changing the tyre to 2.3″? I heard getting a better and wider rim for the tyres can have better bike handling.
Please advise.
Oh ya, I just ordered your book via our local bookshop.
Thanks, Skyler.
Don Says March 26, 2008 @ 4:36 am
Square Tyres.
Lee,
I read that squarer tyre profiles are grippier than more rounder profiles. How much truth is there is this?
I normally run 2.1 tyres on a Mavix XM117 rim - how wide a rim would I have to run to:
1) get a noticably squarer profile on my 2.1 tyres?
2) sensibly run a 2.3 tyre?
Thanks,
Don.
Brian Says March 26, 2008 @ 10:19 am
Hey Lee,
I like wearing Vans Old Skool shoes when riding but the sole is pretty flexy. Is there a stiffer insert that I could put in to make it flex less? The stiffer inserts I have seen aren’t full length which I think would work the best. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Brian
Walt Says March 26, 2008 @ 2:37 pm
Hey Lee,
A little bike maintainance question concerning the hub/paw drive assembly on modern mtb wheels like mavics or azonic outlaws, etc. Since, these wheels have sealed bearings, should you put any lubrication inside the freewheel or on the drive paws? If so, should I use grease, oil, or what? (It seems like the lubricate just attacts dirt to me) Or should I just clean everything and leave it dry? After all the bearings in the wheel are sealed. Also, what about the skewers? Grease them or leave them clean and dry? Hope you can solve this mystery for me?
Oso Negro Says March 30, 2008 @ 11:28 pm
Hey Lee,
Do you still use/recommend the Heim 3 Guide?
Thanks
Rob Calma Says April 2, 2008 @ 5:48 pm
Lee,
I am looking for a some information on freewheels and the difference between the different types of paws(sp) offered by the manufactures. I hear about 3 paw, 6 paw. Is their any advantages or disadvantages?
I am looking for something that engages quicker? What manufactures do you suggest: Shimano, Sram, etc.
I am currently running a Shimano Doere rear hub, 9 speed and a 12-32 cassette.
Thanks
Rob
Dan Says April 7, 2008 @ 6:26 pm
Hey Lee!!
Love the site, love the book. I was wondering if you have had any lower back issues during the course of your cycling experience. Yesterday I was braaaping and today I feel alot of stiffness and soreness in my lower back. I never had any serious injuries to constitute any sniveling. I’m 37, slightly overweight.I ride a hard-tail similar to the P-series bikes. Usually I find that some heat therapy or even a chiropractor is good when it requires it. My question is this, could it be my technique or should I consider specific back exercises to reduce pain after braaaping? Thanks Lee. See ya’ at Sea Otter!!
Chay Says April 9, 2008 @ 11:35 pm
Hey Lee, I have a Giant VT2 which runs a Manitou 3 ways rear shock. It will cost me a bit to get it serviced and change all of the parts….ok…I just needed an excuse to upgrade.
I’ve been looking at the Fox RP23, my questions are:
1. I am running Fox flaot RLC at the front, so, would RP23 a good match?
2. Would it run well on the VT? Or is it going to stuff up my handling?
3. Would it behave very differently? And it is going to take me some time to get used to it?
4. Final question….would it be better off sticking to Manitou 3 ways?
jeff Says April 15, 2008 @ 11:05 pm
Hi Lee,
Thanks for the great site: it’s good therapy while waiting for the snow to melt.
In the meantime, I’ve been riding at the local skatepark and was curious if you had any tips on how to progress towards dropping into a bowl / quarterpipe. I’m in my thirties, and looking down from the coping is super intimidating.
BTW, will your new book on BMX have a section on how to ride pipes and get air?
Thanks!
PS - the two privates I did with you were the best thing I ever did for my riding.
jeff
scot Says April 16, 2008 @ 9:09 am
Lee Another Question:
When going into a loose corner at high speeds (with a sever drop on the other side) is it best to merely weight the outside pedal and position your body in the direction you want to go, or do you also need to push hard and down on the inside end of your bars? For whatever reason I seem to feel like I am pushing down on the right (inside) grip and kind of pulling up on the outside grip.
Dan Says May 2, 2008 @ 12:44 pm
Hey Lee. Sorry you couldn’t make it out to Sea Otter. I myself had a blast. For my first race ever, I qualified and did ok. I didn’t come in first but I didn’t come in last either. Your book was a great help and I really appreciate the work you do. I have a question for you.
What bike in the specialized line-up would you recommend for dual-slalom/4x type stuff? I looked around on their site and thought the sx trail would be nice. I’d prefer a shorter travel full suspension if they had one. I really don’t do alot of jumps and drops that would require that kind of bike. Hopefully this is enough info.
Thanks again for carrying the torch so to speak!
dylan Says May 13, 2008 @ 8:27 am
I have a Pump Track question for the guru. I have started on a new track in the Sierra Nevada Mtn’s south of lake Tahoe. The soil is very loose and hard to get it packed in. The dirt jumps I’ve built usually take a long time to get packed. So the question is do you know about any additives to get loose soil to pack down a lot faster. I’ve gone through your sight and seen there’s chemicals the air force use for runways but i was looking for something more on the lines of natural. The soil has a lot of pine needles on the top so I have to dig down to the soil. I guess it probabally pretty loamy has small amount of small rocks and does pack down well eventually but I guess I am just impatient and want to ride the track sooner at full velocity.
I am a member of the pump track nation and loving all the help and support you have put out there for people.
thanks Dylan Renn