Gear related question: How does the new Stumpy compare to the Enduros of yesteryear? 2003 vintage, and 2005-6 vintage? I know you’ve rawcked them all, and I’m wondering where the new Stumpy fits in, particularly on the strength/durability side.
Sly
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Hey Lee,
I may be selling my full suspension bike this year and I am considering going back to riding a hardtail. I’m pretty interested in the P.1 All Mountain after seeing it on the Specialized website. Have you gotten a chance to ride it yet? If so I would like to know how it compares to the other P.1 as a one-bike quiver.
By the way, Welcome To Pump Track Nation rocks! I start construction on my pump track my next day off!
Mahalo,
Keoni
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Lee,
I was wasting time surfing the internet dreaming about snow/ice free trails when I found one of those 10 Trail Tips You Need To Master type articles on the Mountain Bike Action website (I’m not a huge fan of MBA, but I was killing time). The list was all of the basic stuff you always read (i.e. looking ahead etc.), but they also had one tip of “Riding 80″ meaning riding at a 80 rpm cadence. MBA said, “80 is the most efficient cadence you can use to turn the cranks over,” and that “That is the perfect compromise between muscle force and aerobic power.”
I have never really paid attention to the cadence that I average on a ride, I just try to ride what feels best and pushes my limits. Do you think that there really is an optimum cadence for mountain biking, if so is it the same for every rider? Do think that actively setting/monitoring cadence goals during a ride will improve ability?
Thanks,
Dave
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In Chris Q’s comment on The most effective intervals … ever?, he asked, “What do you think of intervals done on real terrain as opposed to trainer?”
Awesome question.
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Our friend Rob is wondering about a few Maxxis options, plus you know I have a Specialized idea.
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Yes, at least in the beginning. Read on:
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You can rock the pump without dirt — and even without wheels.
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Hi Lee: I’ve been feeling too stretched out and too far forward on my bike. I want to get a shorter stem but I have a Cannondale and they’re pretty expensive, so I want to get the right one. I have a 120mm stem now. Not sure if this is a daft question, but can you recommend what length I should go down to? I was thinking either 80 or 90mm. I guess it probably won’t make that much difference which… Thanks for any advice. Simon
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Hi Lee,
I have a couple of questions about titanium springs for your rear shock. How much weight savings do they provide over a steel spring? and do they feel “plusher?” also, If i have a 500 lb steel spring and i wanted to get a ti spring, would i need to get a 500 lb ti spring? or do ti springs require a heavier or lighter “lb”. than steel?
Thanks, Matt
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Lee,
I love your book and site. You really know how to break down riding skills into digestible bits.
Last weekend I was able to attend a suspension clinic with the guys at PUSH Industries, they are super knowledgeable and great guys. They took the time to review our suspension set ups and had me slow down my rebound on both my front and rear suspension.
They said that most riders ride with way too fast of rebound. I have found that the slower suspension has definitely helped me feel smoother on the pump track, but it is harder to get as much pop on bunny hops. What is your opinion on suspension dampening and what tips can you give me to improve my jumping on a full suspension bike with more dampening.
Also I can’t wait to buy MMBS II do you have an ETA on the date that it will be available.
Keep pinning it,
Dave
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