A couple months ago we talked about shortening cranks for improved pedaling and shredding: Shorter cranks for my Stumpy EVO?
Since then I’ve been thinking about crank length as is relates to leg length and biomechanics. And then our friend Anne sent in this question:
1×11 drivetrains are all the rage. They promise to be simpler, lighter and more hardcore than multi-ring setups.
But is the lowest gear low enough for you?
Happy new year! Quick question: Am I crazy for wanting to put 165mm cranks on my new Specialized Stumpjumper EVO? My inseam is 32 inches, and I ride aggressive trail, with some XC racing. I hope to squeeze in more pedal strokes in these tight Squamish trails, have more ground clearance and hopefully increase my average wattage by spinning a smaller, faster circle. What are your thoughts?
Traditional gear-inch calculations divide chainring by cog, then multiply by wheel diameter. The resulting number lets you compare gearing combinations, but it has no bearing on real life.
If you’re gonna be a nerd, be an informed nerd.
I’m the happy owner of a 2011 Specialized Enduro Expert (and of her sister Big Hit 2008) and i love her. i wanted to ask you a suggestion, since i would like to upgrade my FOX RP23 shock to something more beefy. I’m a heavy rider and sometimes i feel the rear end not tracking perfectly the ground. This happens only on long rocky and messy descents (i ride in the Dolomites).
Now i know that specialized uses a proprietary shock size and pivot to attach the shock to the frame, and i wondered if you came with a solution for this.
Thank you for your time, i loved your Mastering MTB skills
I’ve never had an issue with the clutch on my XTR rear derailleur, but I appreciate a little extra confidence when I’m DHing on my S-Works Enduro 29.
I am loving the new 36 from FOX. After just a few rides, I’m riding faster and more confidently, and my shoulders are holding up better than normal.
With a wide range of both low speed and high speed compression adjustment, the 36 RC2 is highly tunable. And it deserves to be tuned properly.
Most bike fitters are doing great work, but some of the fits I see in my clinics are insane!
This is why I’m now offering “cockpit optimization” services in my clinics.
My wife, who is a great athlete, is wanting to pick up mountain biking and I’m very excited as it’s been my “thing” for years. I ride SPDs but she’s nervous about not being able to click out and crashing. I know a lot of people are riding flat pedals now but what would you recommend a new rider start on?
I just bought a set of new, wider handlebars for my old (2002) Stumpjumper hard tail. My old set-up were 580mm bars (ugh, righ?) with a 90mm stem.
With the new bars I have to buy a new stem, because my old stem doesn’t fit the 31mm-diameter handlebars. Would you recommend I go with another 90mm stem with the wider bars, or drop it down to 70mm? I see the new Stumpys all have 100mm stems, but they’re also 29ers. I’m just not sure about this bike as it has pretty aggressive geometry. I don’t want to make the bike too twitchy.