Warning: For serious MTB nerds.
Lately I’ve been doing a lot of RideLogic™ bike setup consultations for members of the Lee Likes Bikes MTB School.
The school has a simple method and detailed calculators to help you dial in your bike for your body and riding style. One service I offer members is a $49 consultation. You tell me what you’re trying to achieve, and I do the calculations for you. This is a great way to dial in your current bike or choose your next bike—with total confidence. A lot of people spend thousands of dollars on bikes that don’t fit them. Not cool!
To run the RideLogic™ calculations I need accurate head angle and frame reach/stack numbers. When people install longer-than-stock forks, those numbers change, so I have to do some pre-calculation calculations.
This comment was posted on Two rides on a Specialized Fuse Expert 6Fattie
I rode the Stumpjumper 6Fattie and thought it was fun on the technical climbs, I loved the way it leveled the trail trash. As soon as I pointed it down a rocky technical descent I felt like I was sledding on a tractor inner tube. The bike was bouncing all over the trail, no precision with the undamped bounce from the tires. I literally bounced off my line at one point and almost ate it.
I had pressure set at 14F/15R and did not experiment with it. Who knows what pressure I really had as it seems all gauges read differently. Anyway I wonder how more pressure would have made things feel. I felt the tires folding in turns when pushing hard too.
This press release on Pinkbike about Ragley’s 2017 line contains an explanation of Ragley’s geometry.
I like Pinkbike, and Ragley strikes me as a cool company that makes awesome bikes. That said, we’re hearing similar geometry claims more and more, and I don’t think they all make sense.
Hi Lee, two more questions about the stumpjumper fsr 6 fattie, What do you think of the Ohlin shocks? and do you think it would be a good enduro bike I am planning on tackling a few enduro races, I currently have the camber with a 130 mm rockshox pike on the front and love this bike but not sure it can handle enduro racing.
A couple months ago we talked about shortening cranks for improved pedaling and shredding: Shorter cranks for my Stumpy EVO?
Since then I’ve been thinking about crank length as is relates to leg length and biomechanics. And then our friend Anne sent in this question:
1×11 drivetrains are all the rage. They promise to be simpler, lighter and more hardcore than multi-ring setups.
But is the lowest gear low enough for you?
Happy new year! Quick question: Am I crazy for wanting to put 165mm cranks on my new Specialized Stumpjumper EVO? My inseam is 32 inches, and I ride aggressive trail, with some XC racing. I hope to squeeze in more pedal strokes in these tight Squamish trails, have more ground clearance and hopefully increase my average wattage by spinning a smaller, faster circle. What are your thoughts?
Traditional gear-inch calculations divide chainring by cog, then multiply by wheel diameter. The resulting number lets you compare gearing combinations, but it has no bearing on real life.
If you’re gonna be a nerd, be an informed nerd.
I’m the happy owner of a 2011 Specialized Enduro Expert (and of her sister Big Hit 2008) and i love her. i wanted to ask you a suggestion, since i would like to upgrade my FOX RP23 shock to something more beefy. I’m a heavy rider and sometimes i feel the rear end not tracking perfectly the ground. This happens only on long rocky and messy descents (i ride in the Dolomites).
Now i know that specialized uses a proprietary shock size and pivot to attach the shock to the frame, and i wondered if you came with a solution for this.
Thank you for your time, i loved your Mastering MTB skills
I’ve never had an issue with the clutch on my XTR rear derailleur, but I appreciate a little extra confidence when I’m DHing on my S-Works Enduro 29.