I just spent the weekend teaching on a 2014 Stumpjumper FSR Expert Carbon EVO 29. The bike rips up and down, and you can get a screaming deal on it.
Meet my new friend. We’ve only hung out a few times, but we’re starting to get along pretty well.
Many of you are running Specialized Butcher tires on the fronts of your all-mountain/enduro bikes.
The Butcher is a versatile and dependable choice. But what do you run in back, especially if you want faster rolling?
Specialized aims its 2014 Specialized Stumpjumper Expert Carbon HT World Cup straight at hardcore XC racing on smoother tracks.
I have other ideas for mine.
We know this bike is made for serious DH shredding, but Ride #1 was all about climbing.
Not bad, not bad …
I have been blessed with the ultimate tool for an aspiring MTB ninja:
2014 Specialized Stumpjumper Expert Carbon HT World Cup
• FACT IS 10m carbon frame
• Chisel carbon fork
• Roval Control Carbon 29 142+ carbon wheels
• Less than 20 pounds
This is surely a serious tool for XC racing on smoother trails, but how does it shred?
Reading your book on MTB skills and have just taken the plunge and swapped out my Stumpy Elite 26 inched with a Stump Comp Evo 29er (arrives next week).
Thing is we have a nice pumptrack near us and i still want to ride it with my two boys.
It got me thinking that there’s going to be some differences now that i’m on a 140mm travel 29er! Any suggestions would be welcome – I’m guessing I can’t be the only person in this situation
I have repeatedly read your articles about the Stumpjumper FSR 29. I own a 2012 model and I’m quite happy with it. The only problem is my stock fork (Fox 32 Float 29). My crown always got “loose” and starts cracking (more or less always after 3 to 6 months of use). The 1st and the 2nd time I got a new crown/steerer tube. Now it’s the 3rd time I have to visit my local bike store and ask for replacing it.
I’m pretty disappointed with this fork and I would like to change it to something with thicker legs and more travel (140) but will my problem then being solved? Is the crown/steerer part of a Fox 34 more stable than mine?
I started biking 2 years ago in Austria (Alps), I don’t think my riding style is too aggressive for this bike (I have no problems with the frame, the rear suspension or the wheels, just with the fork).
Thank you very much for helping…
After the Saturday coaching session in Utah (see Radness in Salt Lake City, UT), I was exhausted but we had to rock a trail ride. Chris is a seasoned XC racer. Judd is a new-school ripper. The three of us made a perfect platoon of braaap!
The Sea Otter Classic dual slalom is coming up. 2012 was my first year and it was a blast—I am looking forward to 2013. Sea Otter, when you take into account travel, entry, and the practice-qualies-main spread across days scheduling, is the most expensive race in my amateur season.
So I am trying to choose the right bike and I thought you would have serious insight. This is because you own a Specialized SX and a sweet Specialized P3 pump-track hardtail yet chose to race a Stumpy FSR 29 in 2012.
I own a Specialized SX and yet keep being drawn toward the absolutely ripping Nukeproof Snap hardtail I race USA BMX on. Incidentally, I started racing BMX because of Mastering Mountain Bike Skills and a dumb crash in last year’s Sea Otter dual slalom! Best cycling advice I ever took.
My question, put simply, is why did the trail/AM bike come out on top for you? And was that decision purely personal, or was it informed by a general principle that will help me choose to bring a 26 lbs hardtail that rules on hardpack or a 33 lbs dual-suspension slalom bike that seems tailor-made, but is a wildcard.
Unsurprisingly, my SX does not shine on the BMX track, and the only local, legal slalom course was shut down shortly after I bought the frame. Or should I just borrow my father’s old Stumpy FSR!
Thank you very much,